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Bought a solder it together yourself clock kit online. I wanted to see if I could do it. It was about 3 hours of fun for about $7 it displays the date, year, air temp in Celsius, and runs through these one time every minute. Also has an alarm lol.

The way I see it, he coulda taken Paul, but 20 million at his age, if he plays that right, it will take care of him for life. Maybe start an auto dealership like Troy Aikman

I been turning the TV off, and back on again. It seems to help.

Tyson vs Paul fight tonight. Who do you think is gonna win? I am betting Tyson wins

Picked this up at a swap meet today to use on an engine break in stand I want to build. I know it's a mid 70s truck toploader bell. What diameter flywheel is needed with this? Both my V8s are internally balanced. I am assuming its 11" with 143T Thanks in advance Matt

So I ditched work and took a vacation day and went to a swap meet outside Texas Rangers stadium ball park. Not bad. Lots of brand X and a sprinkling of mopar junque. I got this industrial lamp shade for $10, that I will strip and restore. Going to make a mount and put it outside my shop...

Well that's pretty bad when you have to order multiples 6 of the same part, just to get 1 or 2 that are in spec. That shows that their quality sucks.

Been there, done thatseveral times. I think I'm done with that. Get spot weld cutters, and stock up on band aids.

The reason I went with XRF is the fact that they are not retail box store parts. You cant buy them normally over the counter. I found 1 supplier in Michigan that would. The reason they are not normally heard of is they are typically service garage jobber parts. I dont think a service garage...

73-76 LBP disc brake upper and lower. Uppers are an XRF K772 dont remember the numbers on the lowers. I wanted to upgrade to larger bolt pattern and easier to find parts I had locally.

I disagree. People are still pulling these old A bodies out of barns, fields, garages, backyards etc. A high quality set of upper and lower ball joints from a reputable manufacturer, theres still lots of people needing these. It just sucks that MOOG who was the industry standard is now junk.

Ummm nope

If everybody jumps on the bandwagon for these, then they will keep on making them.

Get XRF brand at www.mibearings.com one and done

Neil Young sang about rust never sleeping. This trunklid appears to have been sanded, and some rattle can ruddy brown primer put on it. Well that doesnt seal well at all. The process I am using to pull the surface rust out of the metal is simply 6% white cleaning vinegar and plastic to keep it...

I think we nailed it. Now I have to remove and or neutralize the corrosion on what's left before stitching this in, and making panels up for the outside.

Starting fab on the inner trunk lip section. Theres more perforation on the outer skin lip once we opened it up. I think I am going to naval jelly this area and see how bad it is. May be worthy of just tack welding the holes up and applying a generous amount of epoxy primer over the clean pitted...

He graduated to the air sander. He was afraid of it 3 years ago. Lol

Back after it again. We are knocking off what's left of the paint, and will remove the excess surface rust with white vinegar and plastic sheeting. Will neutralize this with TSP and water rinse. Then flip over and start cutting on the inside.

My son and I have been working off and on with this 1/25 scale GTO. Bahama blue lacquer with automotive clear. Had to hand sand and polish it out. All that's left is the decals. Next on deck is a 67 mustang GT 390.

Thanks brother. I just needed a bit of a push I think. Prob going to remove that trunklid tomorrow, set it on saw horses and cut the inner panel out. I have a full sheet of 19 gage to make new pieces from.

Sonny wanted to work on it. He has been after me honestly for weeks. The temps out here are in the mid 70s now so it's pretty comfortable. So for me this has been the first time in about 3.5 years tinkering. I started chopping rust jerky out of the trunk lid. I do believe I had a little mission...

Get a 69 cuda dash frame, and fill in the ignition key hole. The glovebox button and latch actually lock the door shut. 67 is a 1 year only glove box door and hinges. Under hard acceleration it will flop open 69 dash already has the holes in the right spot to move your vin tag. 68 cuda dash...

Thanks Steve. That lip can be easily duplicated

Its flat steel with holes in it. Maybe somebody has a spare to trace out on paper they can send you as a template, and you can make your own out some thin flat sheet steel. I know that's what I would do.

67-70 rally dash cluster the heater control mount is cast into the rallye cluster gage housing. Should be no issues there. Looks like the only thing you need to do is fill in the ignition switch hole in the 67 rallye dash, and move your ViN plate to the 73 dash. The 67 only glove box door has a...

Sorry I didnt reply on that framerail question awhile back. I didnt see that you posted it. It looks like you fixed it well though.

Grounding tab is only when used in plastic bezels in later models, because the switch housing is the ground. It grounds through the housing to mounting nut, into the dash frame sheetmetal normally. This switch and ones similar to it were used on the full size ram vans up through 2002, as well as...

I sold out of these. The mount hole dimensions are center to center where the studs are that mount the factory dash speaker. As far as the speaker holes themselves go, you could do 3&1/2" diameter or 4" diameter easily.

I'm sure the mods I did will work with an early A body. I did have to clearance the trans tunnel sheetmetal in a few spots with a hammer and a lead shot bag. Nothing visible when the carpet is put down.