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What is up with all the major manufacturers marketing up to 65 and then 67 and up for Valiant floor pans? Is there something special about 66? If not, I'm guessing I'd lean toward the 65 and older floor pans to fit into the 66. Can any confirm that either 66 pans are different than the others...

I'm hoping its simply a matter of getting the right driveshaft then. But not wider or narrower?

Quick question - I've been in the C Body game for quite a while but am looking at a 65 Valiant that needs entire dirveline. I have a low miles 68 Dart that I was hoping I could pull the 225/904 and 7 1/4 and direct swap. Will 68 Dodge drivelines swap/bolt in to a 65 Plymouth? Dimensions same...

Are the hood hinges up for grabs? Trailered a 70 Duster home Sunday and the hood unexpectedly flew open. My hinges are toast. Thanks

1968. If I only drained my battery from having the pedal disconnected, any idea why I have no brake or tail lights now? Everything is back together but nothing works back there. I will do some more checking but I can't figure that part of it out.

Noticed that my driver side tail light was illuminated with the ignition off. Car was going to be sitting so I pulled bulb and left it. Came back several days later and battery was dead and passenger side reverse and brake bulbs were both blown. I've replaced all bulbs and the fuse and...

Current is 1” bore, but would be going to 1 1/8”. Big difference I think. I’ll certainly check it out on the depth. Otherwise, I would think if there are no other things to look out for with doing this swap, it should be a bolt on and bleed. And I know why this happened in...

What do I need to consider if I go ahead and mount up my Disc brake Bendix Master 2226811. C Body I think but I planned on using it without power assist when I put the discs on the front. If I went ahead and mounted it now, is it going to give me issues being that it has the 1 1/8” bore...

Thanks for the help here. Working 6 days a week means this is off the table till next week but I’m sure I’ll get more done than I did today. Nothing more than head-scratching today. And the manual states a retaining clip for 68 models yet this has a plate holding it all in...

OK, i was wondering too, because I pulled the master cylinder off the shelf I was going to use for the big block swap and found it only pushed air out the front when the rod was depressed. I would prefer to rebuild my original, but looks like for time constraints I’ll be putting some...

Any idea on how to remove the pushrod from the assembly? I’m going to meed to reuse it? The inner pump is still in the housing. This shown is for rear housing for the front brakes. Manual doesn’t really help as this MC is not shown.

Removed what I assume is the original master cylinder following an attempt to bleed the brakes. Was getting good pressure in the rear brakes and moving fluid through the lines. Fronts were barely dripping and then peddle went to mush and I can’t get anything built up. Pulled master cylinder...

So that valve is inline just to the heater core? Did that come with a kit from Classic Air?

PM sent

I was looking at several pictures of A/C upgrades in A Bodies to Sanden compressors among others, and noticed the water valve was missing and the lines went straight to the expansion valve and evaporator. I may just be mistaken because looking at my service manual, 68 Darts had the water valve...

OK, maybe now. Bear with me if this doesn’t work.

Nope, still not working

/Users/melissachance/Desktop/DSCN2266.JPG

Someone help me figure out putting pics into posts. I thought I had done it in the past but it has been one failure after another for a while.

[/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]Bought this kit from Eastwood and it had everything I needed. The half round file was by far used more than anything, including the file included in the kit. Body panels are next.

Is that Bondo? Never heard of it, just thought lead was going to be the best for longterm durability.

Went much better today. Taught myself a few tricks, like if the blob of lead falls off the hole, just lube the paddle up and scoop up the lead. Hold it under the hole on the paddle and heat it there, spreading it once it’s hot. Also backed the holes with 600 degree Ducting tape from 3M...

I am filling all of the holes left from removing vinyl top trim and the body trim along the Dart’s belt line, the kind that runs over the tops of the wheel openings and enters and exits pretty much right at the top of the bumpers. Wheel lip holes are going to be crazy to file down with...

68 - sorry

I bought the kit from Eastwood and think I am going to use the lead on the top side where I can be sure it will stick. Leaning toward bondo on the quarters, fenders, doors. And yes, using a propane torch has been a challenge getting the heat right. Good thing I went for an extra couple of...

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I’ve got a nice pair with studs. I’ll PM you some pics.

I have a set with vertical studs, I just looked but will need to unpack some things to find them. They’re off a 68 and are in nice shape. I’ll PM you a pic once I find them.

I was thinking this would be so much better with 2 more hands. Gotta find a day that it’s under 100 and not raining, not been easy lately. I’ll try again tonight I think.

It’s definitely going to take some practice. But it can be done on a vertical surface? I’m trying to get them all filled before I prime the car. A little nervous about the holes that lead into the interior, last thing I need is to burn down my car with an fire started by hot lead...