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The coolant decal is correct for a '66 Canadian A-, B-, or C-body, truck, or van. The air cleaner decal is correct in every respect if your '66 C-body has a 225 engine; if not, the part numbers on it aren't correct, but all other details are.

"Can't find it? Make it!" So I did. The "Valiant" decal was factory installed on early-production '60 Valiants, sometimes on the valve cover and sometimes on the air cleaner; see below. Goes great on a Valiant of any year. The "Mopar Parts" decal with the Flookerang (Forward Look logo) is for...

Yup. The '64-up terminal is this one. Bout $11 gets you 20 of them, so you have enough to munge a few up and still get the project done.

Wish I could help, but I'm out of '64-up switches with no ETA. I have a couple of '62-'63 switches left (same switch, just different style of terminal on the ends of the wires).

Yup, see here.

I did, since we're talking about temperature gauge senders and that's the kind of thread they use.

Sweden.

Holy wah! $3,787 down from $5,197.50‽ That's a steep discount, equivalent to $30,810 instead of $42,285 in 2024 dollars. Evidently those cars just really, really mostly didn't sell.

No, it's a retroreflector ("reflex reflector", or just "reflector"). The ones built into the taillights were too small, too dim, and too high above the road surface to meet local regs. Rear fog lamps were not yet required equipment in Europe (nor even very common) when '68 Baccarudas were in...

Dryseal threads are not quite the same thing as NPT. Related, similar, compatible, but not the same.

No. It might or might not completely block the electrical connection needed between the sender and the head, but it's not at all needed or beneficial. It's brass; it's not going to seize; number one. Number two, those are dryseal threads, designed to create a leak-free seal when assembled...

158 is the old short-life version of 194. 158: 3.4w, 2 candlepower, 500 hours 194: 3.8w, 2 candlepower, 2500 hours The '65 I owned, and I'm pretty sure all the '65s I took apart over the years, used the metal bayonet-base bulbs (53, 53x, 57, 1891, 1893, 1895…) in the dashboard. '66s definitely...

See here for links and info.

'71 on big cars, '76 on A-bodies. Not directly, no.

8ga on cars with the grid-type backglass defogger.

Strongly unrecommend the hacky "fix" proposed by the MAD Electrical clowns; you can do a much better, safer job of it—see here. Link also contains info on adding an external shunt so you can keep your ammeter but without running high current into/out of the dashboard.

It's going to be a want-ad/used-part deal, here and on slantsix.org .

For some views from Chrysler Engineering on that matter, see Figure 17 and the block of text below it on page 9 of this paper.

I wrote that section of that book!

Somebody put Holley Sniper on a Slant-6, and seems to have had a good result: Part I · Part II

People don't realize this because it isn't so. The mechanism behind valve seat recession is well understood, and it's nothing to do with a lack of air filtration (which will do a job on the rings long before it has any effect on the valves). Seat recession happens because above a critical...

Without the baffle, the car will want to stall on hard left turns and there'll be other driveability plagues—all of which the baffle helps with, but doesn't eliminate. All Holley 1920s were built with that baffle, so someone ought to have one for you somewhere.

Classic Industries is a garbage company selling garbage parts. "OER" is a fraudulent bit of branding/marketing; it's supposed to stand for "original equipment replacement". I am out of '64+ switches and down to my last couple of '62-'63 switches. Same switch, just different style of terminal...

Turn on your Dart Lite!

If you get in a crash or hit a pedestrian (etc), and your vehicle is found to have equipment that doesn't meet whatever your state's requirements are, that can go very badly for you in court, or at least with your insurance company—even if your non-spec lights (or whatever) didn't actually cause...

Yes. No. Morimoto is not a company, it is a brand belonging to TheRetrofitSource, a longtime US-based seller of (almost nothing but) unsafe/illegal lighting trinkets. They farm their production out to various job shops in China. Nope. This is an out-and-out lie. Why? You shouldn't. The...

[JW Speaker new/better/cheaper LED sealed beams] Yup, I'll squawk.

These Sylvania Zevos will work at least reasonably well in the '67 Dart reversing lamps. The Philips ones with the LEDs in a sorta-filament position might work, too; have to try and see. The Philips ones with the three outward-facing panels of LEDs are junk in any lamp, as are the ones with the...

If you can wait, wait. JW Speaker will be releasing all-new LED sealed beams in a few months. I was just at their HQ last week, and I got a detailed look at them including an extensive night-drive. They are much better, and they'll be significantly less expensive, with a bunch of options...

Which is fine, because Permatex № 2 is a few hundred miles closer to being an appropriate material for this application than RTV.