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I know it's not an A body but, does anyone on here know anything about Town Wagon's. I'm going to check one out this weekend. The owner doesn't know anything other than it has a 318 and runs great. I'm wondering what tranny and gears to expect? Are these things drivable on the freeway or are...

carbon tracking is an interesting idea. I'm gonna try your test and 67 dart 273's test in the AM. keep you posted

I've shelved the van project for now, although I do not believe it to be intake manifold alignment "Mguner". I'll get back to it when i Get the gremlins outa my dart. thanks

So in my 68 340 dart I had an electrical failure, car just shut off. I've changed ignition switch,voltage reg, ecu, and coil swapped with a working one. I know new doesn't always mean good but... I'm getting 12.5 v at the battery with the y off and 12.5 at the starter relay with the key off...

but i agree it shouldn't be this hard.

this is a different engine different car..

i know there's a lot of stuff going on under there at the moment. I'm gonna work on her all today and see if I can't get it straightened out. I type with two fingers and they're too big for the keyboard!

sorry for the typos my momma raised a whole bunch of dummies!

Hey everybody sorry to leave you hanging with no finale, but unfortunately as I progressed on this build and decided my holley 670 cfm that was originally on the engine wash;t cutting the mustard, I began swapping out my holley 500 cdm off my 340 dart (which is my daily driver) to work on the...

Ok thanks guys, these are both good advice. I feel like it has to be vacuum related too. I have the throttle screw just barely turned, quarter turn past being loose. and I have the idle mixture screws 2 1/2 turns out. After experimenting with them this seems to be the best setting so far...

So yes I mean that the spark rotor ends up pointing between #1 and #3 when I rotate the oil drive gear CCW. I will try that reluctor gap test tomorrow. Also yes I'm retarding the ignition timing (rotating the dist.) to bring the idle down. I don't hav a tach hooked up but I think that's my...

the rotor does line up with the tooth on the bottom of the dist. shaft. Good idea though.

And it is a proform ignition system. It's not stock mopar ignition or a mplar performance kit, it's the slightly less expensive after market model. brand new made for mopar...

I'm terrible at writing and thinking at the same time. I meant when i turn the oil gear CCW it ends up between 1 and 3 and I retard the timing by turning the dist. CW. towards the passenger side.

about the dist. wiring being out of phase, the wires coming out of the dist. have that factory connector on them that pugs into the wires coming out of the ignition control module. Are you saying that I should cut those and switch their orientation? I never heard of that but I'll try anything...

dist. not diet. definitely not on a diet.

here's the cam and diet. that I'm running Comp Cam Magnum, 270H Mild High Performance in 340 Print Specs Submit Return to Store Item Part Number: Grind Number: Lifter Type: Engine Family: Description: Cam Family: Specifications Intake Exhaust RPM Range: Valve Lash: Valve...

so I also have a 72 360 that i've hooked up to a 904 and the flywheel that i bought from summit is a bit suspect to me. I know from experience that if the tongue converter is not seated correctly and you putt it in gear the your screwed. the flywheel that they sold me seems to push my to urge...

also did a vacuum test and it's steady at 12 inches. (that's what she said)

ok so here's my new question, regardless of wether the dampener set at zero or 15 or 30, Am i meant to point the rotor at the tooth that is approaching #1 cylinder ) basically (#3CYLINDER) or directly at the #1? If I'm directly at #1 with the dampener at 15 deg. it doesn't wanna run that...

it would appear to have been vacuum and the fact that Iwas setting it off the incorrect timing mark. Right now like i said the initial is at zero. I'm gonna go try and set it at 15 and see if it'll go. keep you posted.

unfortunately I don't know how much they took off when they decked the block and worked on the heads. I remember he told me he took off as little as possible but got it good and flat. I wasn't thinking about the intake fit then. hindsight's got high beams.

A bad ignition switch can cause backfires. The ignition system basically shuts down and back on for a split second. They're cheap and easy.

Ya know I think that's exactly what's going on. I noticed what appeared to be an uneven amount in one corner and tried to correct it with sealant. After I retorked everything it seemed to help so hopefully it's air tight now. thanks

i think we're really close, gotta do a bit more but it's running on it's own without being pegged and crazy advanced. So right now I have the initial advance at zero and when i ran it originally it started running with around 25-30 deg advance on the timing light. Then i was able to back it...

I see what you mean about the crank mark. I actually did it by looking at the valves and then measured, and then moved them and remeasured to see where they changed size. The heads were shaved and the block was decked. I'm not saying that i don't still have a vacuum leak but everything seemed...

So after the rock over test, I went back and retightened all the intake bolts and ports. It's been run a dozen times now so just to make sure. I set the initial at TDC this time and ran it pretty damn good. It started needing a lot of advance and throttle but I let it run for a while and slow...

yeah of course. duh. I'm a lil slow some times!

I also measured several times with several different feeler gauge strips just to be sure.

Ok so i followed your procedure to the tee. and it looks good. I measured my valves at exactly that moment when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve begins to open on the non compression stroke and at 2-3 deg. BTDC they are exactly the same 1.770 inches. It's difficult to get a...