With the dampener at 15 (& that number is fairly close to dead on & is a better setting than any other amt no matter what else is going on) then with the magnet dead even with the reluctor tooth, that is the exact time/point that fire will jump from the rotor tip and at that point you want the rotor pointing fairly close to the underside of the #1 plug wire cap terminal. the springs will have the rotor retracted at that point when you are checking it with the cap off & the can will shift it CCW from that at rest position when running. the rotor tip and the cap terminal are pretty wide so you have alot of leeway there but that distance cannot be too great or it will misfire. this is "rotor phasing" which I dont think is the issue but yes we need to start at 15. Holler backAm i meant to point the rotor at the TOOTH that is approaching #1 cylinder )
The above is not at all clear. When you say rotor, do you mean the spark rotor under the distributor cap? And when you mean tooth, do you mean tooth on the reluctor wheel on the distributor shaft? (The trigger wheel?)ok so here's my new question, regardless of wether the dampener set at zero or 15 or 30, Am i meant to point the rotor at the tooth that is approaching #1 cylinder ) basically (#3CYLINDER) or directly at the #1? If I'm directly at #1 with the dampener at 15 deg. it doesn't wanna run that well. but pointing at #3 approaching #1 it wants to run all day. I still can't get it to a reasonable idle. At the above described setting i can get it to run with no throttle screw advance, and backing the diet. down all the way to 12-24 deg. advanced. That sounds fine but it's still sounds like it's gonna snap my neck if i try and put it in gear. If i back the dist. down one more degree it suddenly sounds like a good idle but then wants to die. super close but still confused????
ok so here's my new question, regardless of wether the dampener set at zero or 15 or 30, Am i meant to point the rotor at the tooth that is approaching #1 cylinder ) basically (#3CYLINDER) or directly at the #1? If I'm directly at #1 with the dampener at 15 deg. it doesn't wanna run that well. but pointing at #3 approaching #1 it wants to run all day.
That would be the idea. But answer and let's discuss the other questions first on the CW and firing order questions and CCW for retard, etc, that I just posted before you do anything like that; you have other things to check first.about the dist. wiring being out of phase, the wires coming out of the dist. have that factory connector on them that pugs into the wires coming out of the ignition control module. Are you saying that I should cut those and switch their orientation? I never heard of that but I'll try anything at this point.
about the dist. wiring being out of phase, the wires coming out of the dist. have that factory connector on them that pugs into the wires coming out of the ignition control module. Are you saying that I should cut those and switch their orientation? I never heard of that but I'll try anything at this point.
That is a neat idea!Another thing you might try.
If you have an old cap that is in working condition, drill a 1/4 inch hole in it between #1 wire and the coil post. With the engine fired up check with a timing light to see if the rotor is right there. Hook your light up just like you would for checking the timing and shoot it on that hole.
And it is a proform ignition system. It's not stock mopar ignition or a mplar performance kit, it's the slightly less expensive after market model. brand new made for mopar...
http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/6...7&cadevice=c&gclid=COatqOG82cgCFUlrfgod9F8NUw
OK. The retard by turning CW makes sense. I am still not sure what you are saying here; if you turn the shaft 1 tooth CCW, you are not going to end up anywhere near #3 spark plug. Do you mean the spark rotor ends up pointing between #1 and #3 cylinders?I'm terrible at writing and thinking at the same time. I meant when i turn the oil gear CCW it ends up between 1 and 3 and I retard the timing by turning the dist. CW. towards the passenger side.
From what I can see, it works just like the Mopar system. Make sure the reluctor gap is set at .008" as per the instructions.And it is a proform ignition system. It's not stock mopar ignition or a mplar performance kit, it's the slightly less expensive after market model. brand new made for mopar..
So yes I mean that the spark rotor ends up pointing between #1 and #3 when I rotate the oil drive gear CCW. I will try that reluctor gap test tomorrow. Also yes I'm retarding the ignition timing (rotating the dist.) to bring the idle down. I don't hav a tach hooked up but I think that's my next move. But as I back the idle down by turning my dist. I get it to a point where it'll run steady but it's still too much for and idle (12 deg. BTDC on the timing light) and it's literally one more tiny turn of the dist. a degree or two at most and all of a sudden it sounds like a good idle but if I don't keep hitting the throttle every couple seconds it'll sputter and die. Also Yes I'm setting the initial timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged on the carb. when I connect it, my rpm's go way up and then I can back down the ignition timing further by turning the dist. but it's still the same thing. I can't get it to that sweet idle spot.
OK, well the pointing of the spark rotor is not all that important as long as it is hitting the right spark tower, and if it runs smoothly, then it is good enough for now. I'd stop looking at the ignition for now.But as I back the idle down by turning my dist. I get it to a point where it'll run steady but it's still too much for and idle (12 deg. BTDC on the timing light) and it's literally one more tiny turn of the dist. a degree or two at most and all of a sudden it sounds like a good idle but if I don't keep hitting the throttle every couple seconds it'll sputter and die. Also Yes I'm setting the initial timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged on the carb. when I connect it, my rpm's go way up and then I can back down the ignition timing further by turning the dist. but it's still the same thing. I can't get it to that sweet idle spot.