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I always slather copper anti-sieze on the threads and under the head of those screws when I assemble them. I've had a couple that flat would not come apart. Just a suggestion.

About 10 miles south of Chehalis/Centralia.

I had a pushrod go right through the rocker once. Popped the top right off the pocket, it landed in the valve side of the arm. 470-something lift, not a lot of spring pressure, just cruising down the freeway.

I was culling through my stock of stamped rocker arms yesterday, looking for a set to clear the 1.5" O/D springs on my 360. Some are ground for clearance, I always assumed bcause 340/360 springs are larger diameter. Also, some have a more pronounced "detent" where the spring/retainer would be. I...

I bought one of their radiators, my only complaint is with the height of the cap. They use a billet neck, and it stands a bit higher than stock. I had to drop the radiator down some to clear the underside of the hood. I don't have a shroud at the moment, so I don't know yet if that'll be an issue.

If you can't see the V8 mark (mine was really faint), it's 17.5 deg ATDC.

As the motor's out of my car right now, I went and measured it for ya. I've got a strong 9/16" from the flexplate pads, and 1 1/4" from the ring gear.

Bump

Looks like she's gonna end up at about 9.2:1 cr, 1.88" 596 heads, 600 AFB, and at least a Performer intake, if not one a bit better. Consensus seems to be 105° (4° adv), so that's where it's going. I've always considered this a spare motor, while others get built. It may find it's way into...

Well. I go mow the yard and all sorts of things happen. I may not have made it clear before, but I found the 70cc J heads on the motor are worn out. They were when I put them on there, I just didn't know or care how badly. So the original 1.88" 596s are going back on. They've been cut, so at...

Did that once. That divorce was expensive.

I know, i know, but it's the thinkin' that always gets me in the end. Last night I retrieved the original 596 heads (I mistakenly said 587s before, I was wrong) from this motor. Measuring one of them, I've got 64, 65, 65.5, and 67cc, end to end. Looks like the head's not flat. But I think it'll...

It's not so much the budget, it's the fact that I hate breaking in a cam. I hate the thought, even, of breaking in a cam. So much that my next motor (if I have need for one) will be the '89 roller 360 under the bench. I know that makes me stubborn, even maybe coming across as argumentative (or...

That's almost exactly what I did, but I made templates of the ports instead of using a gasket. It was a cheap manifold I had on hand, so I used it, while understanding it's not much (if any) better than a factory cast-iron one. Chances are good I'll swap it out for a Weiand 8002 I've got on the...

No guessing, everything gets measured and mathed.

Good. So that means when I get my CR sorted, I'll be back to talk more about how much I should bump the cam forward. However it works, I'll shoot for at least 9:1, or more if that's how the parts work out. And acquire an adjustable timing chain set, as this one's not.

That's okay, I should have a couple free hours after dinner...

So, if I understand, it would also be beneficial with a higher CR (if I go there), just not advanced as much? At least Lunati's 2 degrees, maybe more?

I bought a truck with this motor in it. Pulled it out around '03, stole the rebuilt 587 heads for another car, then ended up putting some well-used 915s on it. Stuck it in my '65 around 2010, without ever looking at the short block. I wanted to know what i was dealing with, and I have too much...

I have a few other sets of heads, including a set of 2.02 J castings that measured 62+/- cc. So that would bump my CR, I just don't know if I need the bigger valves. Plan was to use them on another engine.

I cc'd everything. Bought a burrette and all the other goodies. I like tools, even if I have to learn how to use them.

I've got a set of them, but they need to be redone. Then either drilled, or buy a new manifold. As well as new pushrods, springs, and whatnot. Thought about it, but not for this motor.

I get the process of physically changing the relation between the cam and crank, but I've never really understood the reasoning behind it. Advancing the cam introduces the air/fuel and dumps the spent gasses earlier (correct?), but what are the effects? I've seen it mentioned enough to guess...

Educate me on changing a cam's ICL, please. What does it do/change?

I just tore down a 360 I've had for 20+ years, zero to low-mile rebuild when I got it, and very little use since. The cam looks to be an older Lunati Bracket Master 2, (as all my timing events match), w/ .480" lift, 230 deg duration (@ .050), and a 109 LSA. As it's installed straight up...

New single groove, red lined, cast/rigid 2nd gear band. $75 plus the ride.

So with nothing in the filter or laying up in the engine, I'm thinking it should register a bit (1/4"-3/8"?) above the full mark. And this is a shorty filter, like the old Fram PH8A vs. the PH43.

The car's still a ways from running, but I will be priming it soon. Hopefully tomorrow. So I will have both levels, filter/engine full, and not.

It's an LA pan, I think early 70's something. It's the one that was suggested for doing the Mangum swap into the '64. I wanna say that's how much my other 2 360 pans hold, but I'm not sure what style/number they are. Thanks Man.