Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I get that. Just because it’s being done doesn’t mean it’s good.
Is the OP buying a cam or using what he has?
Now I have to go look…
.480/230 cam in an 8.5 CR 360?
- Thread starter fshd4it
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I get that. Just because it’s being done doesn’t mean it’s good.
Is the OP buying a cam or using what he has?
Now I have to go look…
Pretty sure it's what he has already.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Yeah, he does. I had to go look again.
That’s a ton of timing for that compression.
I’d buy something else. But that’s me.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
don't let perfect be the enemy of good enough. you want every last drop of performance? then splash the cash and build that ricky racer motor. otherwise knock it fwd a few degrees and ship that mother trucker.
it'll be fffiiiinnnneee.
it'll be fffiiiinnnneee.
It just will not work! Call any cam mfg. and ask them. He would be much better off just using a stock 318 cam. I'll bet he could get one on here for free + shipping. You are giving the man the wrong info.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I’m convinced it will run relatively well.
But this forum and multiple others are FULL of guys complaining about “soft bottom end” and things like that.
It’s rampant.
I’m not a Freiberger type who thinks just getting it running is the cats ***. It may be if you are building multiple cars for a tv channel, but for something you want to drive and not keep screwing with you fix it.
In the grand scheme of things a change of cams is relatively inexpensive. It’s far cheaper than trying to get the compression up.
I don’t step over donuts to grab a dog turd, isn’t my way.
Just because you have something doesn’t make it worth using.
Next up, the OP will need a different converter and more gear to get it correct.
I looked at what rolling the cam to a 103 ICL. The overlap triangle gets murdered.
You can do it, but if the OP found something with 10 less degrees duration and put the LSA at 106 he’d be far better off IMO.
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Richard Holdener basically say same thing from all of the dyno runs he's done the curve is gonna be pretty much the same just it's gonna be a little higher or lower overall depending on the cr.
.5 cr ain't gonna make much difference.
I don't disagree with any of your points. That said, the fact is, we could pick apart one of your builds and point to where you could get more power. You always leave something on the table with every single build. I'm not advocating inefficient builds here, I'm simply saying there's nothing wrong with using what's there and building and tuning it to be optimal for what it is. That's kinda what we do with all builds anyway.
BSB67
Well-Known Member
He said budget was not the issue. He has a quality core and good lifters. I personally will never run a new hydraulic flat tappet cam, unless I had what he has. There is no sound reason to stay with that cam as ground.
For his application, keeping that cam is nothing more than polishing a turd.
For his application, keeping that cam is nothing more than polishing a turd.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
I doubt the OP is looking for a street killer with his 65'. His original setup with a little bit of cam advance, and a good tune will make a nice street cruiser that sounds good. And probably run some 14's if he really feels the need to lean on it.
Yep, i'm one of the old guys that have made something like this work...
Yep, i'm one of the old guys that have made something like this work...
I wouldn't go that far, but I agree there are "better" grinds to be had.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I agree. But I’m not asking for opinions.
I gave him mine. Get the colored t cam and stop using bad hacks to fix issues.
Selecting the correct cam the first time is always cheaper.
I’m patiently waiting for the thread where the converter is too tight and it’s still sloppy down low.
I’m not a prophet but I’ve seen this before.
And the OP can fix it relatively painlessly if he wants to.
Or he can cut a corner.
Edit: there is a few guys I listen to about power on here. It ain’t many though.
Well. I go mow the yard and all sorts of things happen. I may not have made it clear before, but I found the 70cc J heads on the motor are worn out. They were when I put them on there, I just didn't know or care how badly. So the original 1.88" 596s are going back on. They've been cut, so at 63-64 cc, I'm ging to end up around 9-9.2:1, depending on whether I use 8553 or 1008 gaskets (according to the 2 calculators I used). I don't expect perfect, I'm not looking for every tenth... but I respect those that do. None of my rigs will ever see a track (at least not while I own them), and I do want to get this thing reassembled and back in the car. Sure, the converter's probably wrong... or maybe not, as I've never checked the stall on it. 2k was kind of a guess. More gear? You bet. There's a 3.91 741 chunk ready to go in. I don't see them as cruising gears, so the 518 that's sitting against the wall will need to be installed to compensate for that... but as I just stuck one in my '77 D150 2 months ago, I'm a bit burned out on that process. Anyway, I'm not trying to be a dick. I appreciate everybody's (yes, everybody's) input, it has been educational. And if it's not exactly right, I can live with that.
Maybe. lol
If it were me I'd put a Hughes Whiplash in it and let'er rip.
Increasing CR one point from 8.5 will produce more HP than increasing HP one point when at 11.5.
With this cam, the power increase is hardly going to be felt through the mid range to whatever the top end will be. Where it will be felt is in better idle quality, more vacuum & more 'snap' when you punch the throttle.
With this cam, the power increase is hardly going to be felt through the mid range to whatever the top end will be. Where it will be felt is in better idle quality, more vacuum & more 'snap' when you punch the throttle.
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