Good. So that means when I get my CR sorted, I'll be back to talk more about how much I should bump the cam forward. However it works, I'll shoot for at least 9:1, or more if that's how the parts work out. And acquire an adjustable timing chain set, as this one's not.
No IMO that's backwards. But it depends.
Start with:
what do you want this car to do? and
what octane gas are you willing to pay for?
Ok well since I have been paged and missed it, and since you're willing to set a spell; here goes, Firstly I like that cam.
If you want all the power that cam is capable of making,
that's a different build than trynta get a heavy car moving with 3.23s and a lo-stall, which is a different build if your going for fuel economy.
And in most cases, once the build is chosen, you may not be able to alter the course of the build, without making multiple changes.
Depending on the engine displacement, every degree of Intake Center Angle change, can make between 1.2 and maybe 1.8 psi change in cylinder pressure, and it matters not if the change is due to installing a different cam or, if due to retiming the cam, the results are the same.
If you choose the right cam in the first place, then you won't need to advance the cam. When you change the cam-timing on the intake side, this drags all the other timing events along with it, which is usually a bad thing.
After you subtract the intake and exhaust durations from the total time available (in degrees) , you are left with a number which is all that is available for compression Plus power.. So you have to share that number. If you give more to compression, in the quest for cylinder pressure, then you will have less available for power. and vice versa. Less power duration means that some work is sacrificed and goes right out the tailpipes, costing you low speed power and fuel economy. If the power cycle gets to be too long, the piston ends up pumping the exhaust out, costing you torque and you guessed it, fuel economy. So with a single-pattern cam, you do not want to give too much to the compression cycle; it is better to just start with a higher compression ratio.
Another thing that happens when the cam timing is changed is that the overlap cycle gets moved. With a single pattern cam, you can easily destroy it's effectiveness, by moving too far. However, if you do not have headers, this is no big deal cuz with log-manifolds the overlap cycle doesn't contribute much if anything anyway.
The thing about cams is that, most FTH cams have been rated for decades at 050, so cams with similar 050 intake durations will make similar power. But that don't mean they will perform the same. The clearance ramps can be fast or slow and that is gonna affect both how they idle, and how bad the waste fuel at low-rpm.
So, I mean, there is a ton of stuff going on in every cam-grind.
Your cam for instance, by the 050specs, has just 12* of overlap. That doesn't sound like much, but in fact is a lot, because overlap is actually working a lot longer than that. We really need to look at the advertised numbers to get a better idea.
Say your 230/230/109 cam specs out at .008 tappet rise of 274/274/109. Now the overlap is rated at 56* which is a lot. But if you slam the exhaust valve down too early, or the intake opens late, then you are effectively reducing the TIME, available for the overlap cycle to do it's job, which reduces absolute power. So if yur going for power, with headers, you gotta keep this in mind.
Sure you can advance a too big cam to build cylinder pressure, but at the expense of every other "stroke", but IMO that's not what you want to do; instead just put the pressure up where it belongs. Yeah it will cost you a good chunk of change, but it might save you buying a convertor and gears, be more drivable, and with increased fuel-economy.
And you know, tapping the gas pedal, to get a lil tire noise while exiting the burgerstand is always cool, right. Well, a tap on a 8.5 engine at 135psi, gets you nothing but maybe embarrassed.
If you know the exact compression ratio of your engine, and you have decided what octane gas you want to burn, then you can optimize your ICA to build peak pressure, and then just dial in the rest of your cam specs, according to your usage, and thus you will have the perfect cam for your combo. If you engineer it this way with the right quench, then you will have the option of going at least one and maybe two sizes bigger, at a later date.
But if you stick that 230* cam in with a 61* Ica into an 8.5 engine, the pressure is predicted to be down at 134 psi, which, at sub 3500, would be a bit of a dog, and with 3.23s and a lo-stall, that means until about 32 mph. and there ain't darn thing you can do about it. But worse is that you got no where to go but down in cam-sizes. Every bigger cam with a later closing ICA will make even less pressure.
If you advance that cam 8 degrees, stealing them from the power stroke, the pressure is predicted to rise to 144, which is still a dog; AND now your wasting energy right out the exhaust.
But if you increase the Scr to ~10/1, the pressure rises to 165, and now your power stroke is back on line, still with an Ica of 61*.
Now, far be it from me to tell you what to do,
but I can tell you what I wouldn't do,
which is, that notta chance would I install that cam in an 8.5 engine, in your combo.
If you do, I can almost guarantee that a 3500 stall and at least 3.91s are in your future, as bandaids for lack of cylinder pressure, and guess how many miles per tank that car is gonna roll. Not many, and with the price of gas going up nearly every hour, it's only gonna get worse.
Well I mean unless yur just gonna idle it around.
BTW
at 134 psi, a 360 will feel like somewhere between a hi-compression 318LA and a 5.2Magnum; until the cam wakes up.............. you know, about 32 mph in your combo.
So what's my opinion?
Well for that cam,
here's my plan;
closed chamber iron heads, and a compression ratio boost to close to at least 9.8/1 @.040Q, is what I'd target; plus headers for sure, a free-flowing dual exhaust, and the finishing touch would be a 2800 convertor; I love those things.
With 162 psi @040Quench on tap, I'm all set for up to two cam sizes bigger, ending around 153psi, with no other changes. Advance that biggest cam(say 242@050) to in at 64*, and the pressure is predicted to rise to 157psi, Badaboom!
Pressure makes heat, which makes torque and power.
Oh just in case you don't know it, bigger cams move the power up, to a higher rpm; meaning a higher roadspeed. Each bigger cam is about 200 rpm.
To maintain mid-rpm performance after the stall is done, You can bet each bigger cam size will want a gear change of ~5%, to get the roadspeed back in check. Your lo-stalled 230* cam already wants 3.73s. Next cam will like 3.91s and next is 4.11s