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Been driving it lately, since it hasn't been so hot in Texas... still need to finish the black paint in the middle of the grill

What is the Allan key adjusting?

Not for the faint of heart. I'm speaking from experience. I only did it because I'm doing a complete rotisserie restoration on my Duster. If I started with the car you have, I'd have never gone down this road. The Brewers kit is pricey, but you'll spend almost as much trying to piece meal it...

Hey FABO, Just wanted to give a shout out to a member here that totally gets the point of the MOPAR brotherhood. @pauly is a beauty. I needed some small pieces for a truck window, and he very generously came through, without accepting any money for the parts. I'm very grateful to him for...

Get yourself one of these (or some variation of it)... You won't believe how many times you'll use it.

PM sent. Thanks

Hey FABO! Sorry for the truck post, but I'm trying to find some vent window hardware and I know there are some truck guys here on FABO. 1 - Plastic spacer that goes between the window frame and the door frame 2 - Retainer clip that goes around the pivot stud on the vent window swivel...

There's a pic in Post #1 of Part 2 that shows what I found at a hardware store to replace the rivets. Kinda like a threaded barrel nu with a little bolt that has a river head. Pop Out Window Resto - Part 1 Pop Out Window Resto - Part 2

I suppose that's possible, but I would need to move the aftermarket heater that is currently on the other side of that panel. Plus, one of those pieces is the Holley Hyperspark coil, so the coil wire would need to pass through the firewall to the distributor. Which I guess could be done.

Been making some headway on the Trailduster lately. Painted the front frame rails, just to clean up the engine bay appearance... Had to fab up a place for all of the Holley Sniper electronics and components to go, so I'm using the spot where the original heater box was (since I'm running an...

Like others have said, it's not too difficult. If you do end up taking it apart, make sure you keep track of where each shim goes! You'll have a pile of parts that you can scrub If you don't want to mess with taking it apart, get some Oil Eater and submerge the shifter in it for a couple...

Alright, thanks again for all the replies. So, I verified that the slots in the shaft matched what RRR said. Driver's side at the front, facing down. Pass side at the rear facing down. I turned the crank by hand and was able to get some oil out of the passenger rockers, then my drill died...

Thank you for all the replies. First off, I didn't build this engine. I bought it from another FABO member, who said it was a strong runner, no issues, etc. So I have no idea if the bearings were lined up with the oil port holes. Second, how do I tell if the shaft is installed either...

Hey FABO! Well, I'm really hoping for some info here that helps me avoid a worst-case-scenario. Today I primed my 318LA engine, in preparation to fire it soon. I had a helper turn the engine over with the ignition key while I use the drill to prime the pump. After a few seconds, the driver...

I'm in Ireland at the moment, and came across this while driving in Dublin. I wonder if these letters would look good across the back of my 70 Duster?

@challengergary all the way!

Sorry for the delay. It's a 3 wire alternator. Good tip on the dedicated ground wire. Thanks

For me, it came about because I was replacing the gauges and I needed to make a custom set up. The aftermarket gauge set did not have an ammeter. And yes, a secondary concern is melting the plastic on the bulkhead connectors.

I've removed the ammeter and change to a volt meter. The thick battery and alternator wires that originally connected to the ammeter at the dash are now joined via busbar at the firewall. They won't pass through the bulkhead connectors at all.

It's a '75 Trailduster with a 318 from the 1968 model year. All new wiring throughout, most of it upgraded sizes. The alternator needs to support the stereo, EFI, and aftermarket A/C system.

Hey FABO, I'm in the market for a new voltage regulator. It seems there are a number of options, all at a different price point. Can anyone offer some sound advice on the differences (other than Made in China vs USA) on these units. Some are $15, some are $80. Here's some units listed on...

The A/C is a separate under dash unit, self contained. The heater core is in a different box, with it's own outlet ducts. I was thinking there would be some radiant heat just from the hot coolant passing through, but I wasn't sure how much that will be felt. I saw a little electric valve...

Ok, cool. That's kinda what I was thinking. Thanks RRR

Hey FABO, I'm installing an aftermarket A/C & Heater combo in one of my projects. Do I absolutely need a heater control valve? I understand that if it's not there, the engine coolant will just flow through the heater at all times. But, without the heater blower running there won't be any hot...

Making a little headway lately...

Call this guy. He had a bunch of different connectors for different models, when I talked to him. Mike AMS Obsolete 706-337-4606

I'm assuming these will also work with the 318?? If so, I will take them.

Just take your time around the trim, tape it slowly and make sure the tape edges are securely down. For the clips, check out Ramchargercentral.com. You may already be a member there, if not I bet someone there can hook you up.

My question is, do you think the fresh paint would stick to the single stage repaint if I hit it all with a light sanding or a scotch bright? Will the paint stick? Yes. Will it look good? Kinda depends on your ability to lay down even coats. Will it last? Very hard to say. You can definitely...

A few tips from my own experience... - make sure the lift is inline with the bay door, so you can drive straight in and straight out - it's hard to tell from the pics, but you may have an issue with those overhead lights being in the path of a vehicle that is going up on the lift - where is...