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The newer caps with the vents like this - you need some air space for expansion to happen. You don't need the fluid all the way up to the bottom of the openings for the caps. You want at least 10% of the total reservoir volume for air space. But yes, the vents toward the back is very...

Yeah, I can jack up my very well used/high mileage car and the doors open and shut exactly the same and the gaps do not change whatsoever. One of these years I need to actually rebuild the hinges so it's right and fix the solidly welded striker but this car is in the 260-270k mile range as far...

Trust me, there's probably few people on here that did more projects that take patience and pre-planning - MPFI, 6-speed swap, Classic auto air, etc... this one just doesn't seem worth the extra effort compared to the other options. Most of the other frame connectors you just pop the front...

Subframe connectors are great. I don't know that I would suggest putting on the USCT ones unless you're either a masochist or have the car totally blown apart. I have the hotchkis ones and it really stiffened up the car. The door used to rattle on bumps and no longer did immediately after...

Most cars you would do a 180 stat and turn the fan on at 195 or 200. That is not hot enough to do anything you'd need to worry about.

I have the same setup you do, I didn't charge it yet, but mine has held vacuum since November so I don't expect problems so long as the compressor can build pressure I did drive the car with the belts setup this way and they seem fine -> I didn't turn a ton of RPM yet but it made a 20 mile...

Sorry I forgot to mention I made a bracket for that tube to hold it up, but it seems like the hot ticket. If anyone needs one, let me know and I'll get in contact with my friend about pricing/availability.

I cut and modded my glovebox - the JB Weld Plastic Weld worked good, but I got some runs. Not a big deal since you never see it anyway. For some reason I had to cut the upper corner because of the pinch weld on my car...This is a later plastic glovebox. Now it fits fine. Interior is back...

I think it was last year when it aired first on Motortrend+, no clue where it was made. Like I said, my shorter ones are USA and are from last year so who knows. It's possible the China made WIX is still made well. Depends on what they did to make them, if its all the same spec and the same QC...

I gotta be honest, there are some holes in that test or the results. Pressure and flow should have an inverse relationship because with only one variable, the flow should be lower with a higher oil pressure. It's quite possible that it could be a 10 micron filter, the higher pressure would...

WIX and Purolator are both owned by Mann and Hummel. Unless something changed, the Motocraft filters were Purolators -> essentially a custom case and a filter somewhere between a standard Purolator and a PurolatorOne. I would use any WIX or Purolator oil filter or any house branded one. I...

X pipe should be quieter, though the mufflers you choose are worth something here as well. If you use the turndowns instead of extending the tips past the bumper, it will drone a lot more. My Duster has the 2.5" TTI x-pipe system and the Dynomax Ultra-Flos. I would imagine the super turbos are...

Just had a look with the 3D printed tube my friend made for me, it was made in 2 pieces and glued together: The idea is that it goes above the gage cluster. I am probably just going to double sided tape it to the dash frame. The gage cluster did fit in my case, but nothing in this car is...

I don't see why it matters if you want to connect it to the starter relay instead of to the battery in that case. It's a wire with a fuse and some terminals.

Why not just do this? You can always just subsitiute the maxifuse, though the fuse is protecting the wire anyway. Painless Performance 30700 Painless Performance Alternator Wiring Kits | Summit Racing I have one on my Duster. My fuse is close to the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B59TH1Q2?tag=fabo03-20 This doesn't have a hangar, but IMO it's basically the gold standard of work lights. If you've seen Mortske Repair or WatchWesWork on Youtube it's basically all they use. I have one and the battery life is really good and it's very bright.

Thanks for making the effort to test it in this way. Because that design turns it more into a cantilever beam and assuming the force at the center of the bar is the same in all cases, simply moving it closer to the tube by mounting the bushing vertically as seen in the RMS Alter-K-Tion is an...

Could there be a stronger one made, sure, absolutely. But saying they do nothing, when even if they are designed for a 5mph crash so there isn't damage (which is a much higher load than cornering) doesn't do anything to stiffen this part of the car (which is badly needed with any front end...

It doesn't matter what they built, I mean it's a metal stamping with some welding, they could literally have sent it to anyone who can meet quality standards. Honestly even those weren't very high, I agree on that. The general design of it is quite good though, especially considering using a...

I point it out because without knowing literally ALL details, modeling it, doing an FEA, or some flex test we're basically talking standard textbook engineering stuff. If you take two parallel members, connect them with one crossmemeber welded at a 90 degree angle with no gussets, when you put...

Geometry and having a rack aside...all the coilover kit k-frames on the market seemingly have some similar comprimises which are on the surface pretty bad for a cornering car. I know that generally front steer rack driving vehicles feel better. These things have their place but clearly not...

If you want to be successful you need to spend a lot of time and some cash with the fuel system. I wouldn't do anything other than the Tanks, Inc tank / similar or the Aeromotive Phantom I have with a full return system. The rest shouldn't be too bad. I don't like having the electronics as...

Hype in the same way the 280/280 purple shaft or XE268 cams are done. Someone built one that worked well 25+ years ago so that's the only thing that people follow. My opinion the Weiland manifold looks the closest to the LD340. I did EFI and switched from an air gap which worked well to a...

You couldn't get a hotel with the travel agency anyway / with the main group or whatever at this point. I have some different ones somewhat away from there. You're basically on your own anyway. Take your own precations is what I would recommend.

That really caught me off-guard! If anything the air tool is more green given the compressor doesn't have lithum batteries and the compressor and tool have EXTREMELY long lives usually. I would buy Astro Pneumatic. So far so good on everything I have from them and the price is also very...

They just did a Power Tour West in December. You could probably do that. 80% of the country lives east of the 98th meridian so it's no shock it's usually in the east somewhere.

I'm signed up to do the long haul. My folks live between Bowling Green, KY and Lebanon, TN so I actually save by having 3 nights at their house.

Yes, it replaces the stock heater. I did get a tube that's fully the size of the oval vents but its been cold enough I haven't been out there verifying where it fits if at all. The space is worse than I thought getting past the column and wipers.

Glad you have had better luck. Additionally before I bought the car the alternator had melted the dash harness due to being stuck on full field My friend has a 1971 Demon and the alternator that was with the car failed and the replacement also failed within a year. Now it's at a 12SI delco...

The thing is...the mopar ones fail more than these do. I think in the first 8 years of having this car, I had 2 of them die on me. Then the replacement somehow had a powder coated case so I ended up making my own ground wire to get it to work. The mopar alternators also make almost no power at...