COOLING SYSTEM PROBLEM FIXED

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EDMOPAR

EDMOPAR

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Hi, to all, Finally fixed my cooling system problem, 76 duster, 72 340, 22" Champion Radiator with (2) ten inch fans, high performance pump, change thermostats, drilled holes in thermostat, changed timing, car would heat up to 210 and above, I finally ordered a 18" clutch fan assembly and shroud from Mancini Racing, installed with a 180 thermostat and now temp runs around 183-185 and goes no higher than 190 when I stop or in stop and go traffic, this has been a pain in the u-no-what, I also called Ledfoot Racing, this is where I purchased the setup from and they offered me no help what so-ever, except to sell me another set-up, the set-up was supposed to cool 550 hp, I may have 350 hp max, this may help someone going through the same problems. Have a great day, Edward
 
EDMOPAR said:
Hi, to all, Finally fixed my cooling system problem, 76 duster, 72 340, 22" Champion Radiator with (2) ten inch fans, high performance pump, change thermostats, drilled holes in thermostat, changed timing, car would heat up to 210 and above, I finally ordered a 18" clutch fan assembly and shroud from Mancini Racing, installed with a 180 thermostat and now temp runs around 183-185 and goes no higher than 190 when I stop or in stop and go traffic, this has been a pain in the u-no-what, I also called Ledfoot Racing, this is where I purchased the setup from and they offered me no help what so-ever, except to sell me another set-up, the set-up was supposed to cool 550 hp, I may have 350 hp max, this may help someone going through the same problems. Have a great day, Edward
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Same problems I had, basically, and also the same fix!
 
i had the same exsact set up on my dart with the same problem went back to all my stock cooling and works great agian
 
Every Spring there's a buncha "overheat" threads, and yr after yr, the cure's been the same.

Research, or a "search" here woulda saved you a lotta $$$ , trying to re-invent the wheel... lol . . jmo

Wait, they'll be more as spring progresses, and few will do a "search"..

This should be a sticky..
 
inertia said:
Every Spring there's a buncha "overheat" threads, and yr after yr, the cure's been the same.

Research, or a "search" here woulda saved you a lotta $$$ , trying to re-invent the wheel... lol . . jmo

Wait, they'll be more as spring progresses, and few will do a "search"..

This should be a sticky..
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I totally agree, yet how can they say the setup will cool 550 hp, plus you give them your individual set-up and you still get a setup that doesn't cool and then they want to sell you a different set-up, Not C-O-O-L at all!!
 
If they have a "Media" page, ALL of you should go post your displeasure there.
 
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they offer a guarantee?
 
The problem with most electric fans is that if they get a little flow resistance in front of them, the actual flow drops into the toilet. Radiators create considerable pressure drop as air tries to flow through them, especially 2 and 3 row ones. So most fans are going to crap out. I have tried to dig down into much of the fan literature to get the flow versus pressure drop curves with little success.

But, if you have thin balded fans, then they have this characteristic of the flow going to heck with any real pressure drop in front of them. The air just flows from the back of the blade around to the low pressure area in the front of the blade and just keeps going around and around.

There are some very successful designs of electric cooling. I raced a Mitusbishis Starion for along time for a long time and it cooled fine with the factory fan setup, even with the HP upped to 275 Hp from 2.6L.

Can you tell us the brand of the fans? Have a pix?
 
A mechanical clutch/fan is more efficient. They only changed to electric fans when they put the engines sideways in the 1980's. I agree w/ all except using a lower temp T-stat. I would run a 195 F T-stat for better efficiency. Once it is max open, it doesn't matter what the temp setting is, so either would equally allow 210 F if the other cooling parts aren't up to the task.
 
nm9stheham said:
The problem with most electric fans is that if they get a little flow resistance in front of them, the actual flow drops into the toilet. Radiators create considerable pressure drop as air tries to flow through them, especially 2 and 3 row ones. So most fans are going to crap out. I have tried to dig down into much of the fan literature to get the flow versus pressure drop curves with little success.

But, if you have thin balded fans, then they have this characteristic of the flow going to heck with any real pressure drop in front of them. The air just flows from the back of the blade around to the low pressure area in the front of the blade and just keeps going around and around.

There are some very successful designs of electric cooling. I raced a Mitusbishis Starion for along time for a long time and it cooled fine with the factory fan setup, even with the HP upped to 275 Hp from 2.6L.

Can you tell us the brand of the fans? Have a pix?
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Thanks for you input, its a champion radiator setup I purchased from ledfoot racing # CC2374b, with (2) ten inch fans, I think they are Spal fans acccording to Ledfoot racing, I think they are only 749 cfm each, I was told it would take 2100 to 2500 cfm to cool my engine after the fact it didn't work, so they were going to sell me a 16" electric fan and a alum shroud for another $250.00 dollars,my complaint which doesn't really matter at this point was, they shouldn't have sold this setup to me if they knew it wasn't going to work, then try to sell me something else that may or may not work, I gave them all the specs before I purchased, A lesson learned that you can't trust every body that trying to sell something, some time its all about the sale ($$$$$)

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inertia said:
Did Ledfoot supply just the fans, or did they also supply the finely made mounting plate and hardware.??
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Ledfoot supplied the entire setup including radiator, fans, alum. mounting plate, relay kit and a BIG HEADACHE!!
 
Yeah, we've seen some pretty fancy mountings, that mounting plate looks to be part of the problem, blocking flow.

I'd mention your prob on their Facebook page, prob find a few others there too..
 
inertia said:
Yeah, we've seen some pretty fancy mountings, that mounting plate looks to be part of the problem, blocking flow.

I'd mention your prob on their Facebook page, prob find a few others there too..
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That and the flow of the two ten inch fans in not enough cfm, i think I read on this site were they had problem with this setup, yet they continue to sell, thanks to Mancini racing for helping me out and selling me a setup that worked!!
 
EDMOPAR said:
... some time its all about the sale ($$$$$)
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Welcome to capitalism.
It is all about Marketing, and those kits are mainly marketed to Trailer Queens that will never drive a mile. Nice bling though.

Same deal with the stainless braided cover and AN nuts (fake?) over the coolant hoses. Not really functional, but impresses. I would be impressed if someone could fit formed silicone heater hoses (after-market for Mustangs and rice cars) with it looking like a factory design.
 
Thanks for the pix. Looks like several that have shown up as problems. Sorry you had to go through this all. I figure that the 550 HP rating is god if you only driving 1 mile on a winter day...LOL

The core problem with these is all in the blade design. I've designed cooling solutions for electronics and I always look at the flow versus pressure drop curse in selecting any fan. The few these cheap thin balded fans' flow curves that I have found are pretty bad.
 
Do you happen to have the part number or a link for the shroud you used edmopar? I have the same radiator and am looking for a shroud
 
Appreciate the link, but I was hoping be found one that doesn't need modified to fit, if I have to I have to, but I'd love something that drops into place.
 
Wreck0nin said:
Appreciate the link, but I was hoping be found one that doesn't need modified to fit, if I have to I have to, but I'd love something that drops into place.
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With an aftermarket radiator you're almost always looking to modify things. The mod is not difficult, and works. Have fun!
 
Hello,
I too have the Champion radiator and electric fan I got from Champion, and my car runs 190/ 200 and above, and I also have messed with the timing trying to figure out why it runs hot all the time.
Thank you for the post, looks like I will have to try this set-up on the Barracuda
 
Mick Hollen said:
Hello,
I too have the Champion radiator and electric fan I got from Champion, and my car runs 190/ 200 and above, and I also have messed with the timing trying to figure out why it runs hot all the time.
Thank you for the post, looks like I will have to try this set-up on the Barracuda
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Hi Mick, so many of the aftermarket fans don't move enough air to do the job. Not only that, but the "shroud" they use impedes the airflow through the radiator while driving too. Hopefully the shroud mod will work for you. Be sure to get a good 7 blade fan too. I used a fan clutch on mine but some prefer to not use one. Be sure the fan goes about 1/2 way into the shroud when installed.
 
Those are cheapo, low-flow fans, and you're expecting the air to make a 90 degree turn right at the back because the shroud has no depth. No idea what the fan setpoint is, but it will spike a few degrees above that point even if it has enough capacity to cool it forever. It won't run right on the setpoint unless it's been on for a few minutes.

OE fans from modern cars are the only way to go in electric fans. 11 years with a Contour Fan and a 26" 3 row champion. I don't even turn the low speed on until 195 and it doesn't get above 200. I think anyone panicking if their car never gets over 210 is also overreacting as well.

My daily driver has a switchable thermostat and runs 221 most of the time and 210 if the A/C is on. I also had a car that was made 30 years ago that ran at 203 all the time and up to 230 in traffic being normal and those cars lasted too. No reason you can't run 210 on an excursion when these cars had a 195 thermostat stock.
 
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