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sorry i havent checked in lately, here is a couple more

dart price lowered to $6000 today 3/25/12

1974 dodge dart , all work done during 2008, 2009 and 2010 Body color is silver, interior is black, bucket seats, no back seat. Hood as a six pack type scoop installed, hood is black Engine: 1971 383 , steel crank, comp. ratio 9:1 ,engine had been rebuilt when I bought it in 1998 . Double...

i didnt use anything from schumacher to swap in my b block into a 74 dart, you can cut the factory spool mounts and move them back 1" and that takes care of that . i also used a set of ebody headers and cut the tubes and rewelded them to clear . the trouble with using the e body headers is...

4.5" should be fine .

yes its probably the big o ring leaking, i rebuilt mine a couple yrs back and the hardest part for me was removing and reinstalling the pulley. its not really that bad of a job.

booster has been sold, thanks FABO

sale is pending, thanks

booster has been sold, thanks

i just put on a jegs 2.5" system 2 weekends ago on mine and i have a good deep tone from it. it runs all the way to the bumpers. i think that jegs and summitt both probably use the same mufflers , i dont think the carbon buildup will help any.

at their website they have their phone numbers but dont think they have an email adress. www.turboaction.com

on my 74 the upper plastic trim piece is seperate from the door panel. i have to remove the door panel first after removing the window handle, armrest, etc. then the panel pulls loose , its being held by the clips but it also tucks up under the plastic trim piece about 1/8 ". then you will...

im running yukons that he sold me , fit right and no problems.

something you might want to do is weld in a baffle on the back side of the sump to control oil slosh on acceleration. here is a factory type:

i think you should use the smaller cam, but how are you going to get the compression up 7 tenths of a point , i dont see how you can do this easily. even head milling and the shim gasket might get you an lncrease of only .5 i believe.

Quote: Originally Posted by oldkimmer ..........If u leve off the kd linkage u will burn up the trans from low oil pressure.............if u tie it back, it will NOT shift out of 1st gear.......the govenor pressure cannot overcome the line pressure..............kim........ Are you positive...

the biggest hassles in the swap to bb is the headers, the engine to radiator clearance and the power brake booster and or blower fan to valve cover clearance. this can all be overcome but it does cost money. then there is the motor mount issue too.

when i did mine a couple years ago, i didnt have to do anything about the shocks, i mocked up my rear end (putting everything in place as it would be ) but without the shocks and without welding in the spring perches but bolted things down but not tight then adjusted the pinion angle...

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/Valveadjustmentprocedure.pdf turn the adjuster while spinning the pushrod until the rod starts to get tight then turn the adjuster 1/2 turn and lock it down.

hi fellas, ive got an old 904 that i want to strip down and was wondering if any of the parts interchange with a 727 . Ive heard the valve bodies might. anyone know?

ok thanks, i can handle that .

can you replace the bearing without tearing entire trans. down ?

without going into the block and spending alot of money, i would pull the heads, and mill them around .050 and do a mild port and valve grind and put it back together with a steel head gasket. this should boost compressio by 4/10ths of a point.

your pistons are probably down .150 in the bores , mine were lower than that, be careful with cam slection with the low compression, you definately need new lifters with a new or used cam change. your heads will probably come out to be 88 ccs. if you can afford to , pull the heads and...

that dipstick thats on there is for the motorhome which probably had a small hood and the stick needed to be extra long to be able to be reached. The aftermarket sticks are just like the car big block engines sticks and it will mount midway along side the engine and bolt to an engine to...

ive picked up a couple of sets on ebay pretty cheap and they were new too.

yes it is a direct replacement for points, everything is under the dist. cap. it is a magnetic pickup not an optical sensor.

well over a year has past since the last post and the car is almost driveable now i just lack a few details, such as carb tuning, wheel alignment, and i need to get some kind of fan shroud on. also redid the ignition system with msd coil, box and wires. ive moved the battery...

if we are talking big block engines , the pass. side will probably work but the drivers side wont .

thanks that looks like a pretty nice setup.