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Yep! Finally got it off with a picklefork and some strong hits. Its definitely been on there for 50 years. I had every bolt off the column and it was super loose and moving about 3" when tryign to pull it up off the steering box and wouldn't budge. Finally got it with some pickefork smacks

I used a spare pushrod to do this and it worked amazing! Now if I could actually get the gear and coupler to come apart!

Fire away! That's a cool AC system too. My Duster had AC on the slant that I pulled out so I have all the underdash components there. This might fit the ticket down the road. The price is good too

Love that. I just got used to manual steering - it's not terrible. Soon as you get going it's just as easy as power steering but no pump or fluid to manage. Definitely like to keep it simple

Ended up buying this aluminum 16:1 rebuilt manual gearbox. Since the engine is still out, I kept looking at the original gearbox thinking I should replace it, but I dont need power steering. Bit the bullet and got a good deal on this.

Here's the flange

Context: swapped out my 7.25” rear for an Exploder 8.8 rear. Previously I had a slant 6 904 transmission in and a 7260 yoke Two things. The flange from the 8.8 is in need of some yoke or converter. I have no idea if my driveshaft will even work but wont know the shaft length needed (to order)...

Intake is on. Shock mounts are on after widening the holes considerably. Thermostat and housing installed. Belt pulleys are going on well so far. Waiting on valve cover bolts, torque converter bolts, shock mount bolts with spacers to connect the shocks to the new mounts, engine to transmission...

Updates: I set the valve lash on the engine with the new longer pushrods (7.495" length from comp cams worked) Got the intake installed, but having an issue with one of the bolts so might have to repair the helicoil on the head (already) On a separate issue - I got these shock mounts from...

Might buy a second set of small block bare heads if the price is right

Got the 8.8 in Ordered and installed new 7.49" pushrods Ordered and awaiting radiator, starter, clamps for 8.8 brake line, 8.8 vent and some other small things Next on the list: 8.8 parking cable installation Brake lines installation and bleed Fill 8.8 with gear oil Jump to engine work again...

Ahh shoot no I dont actually. Id weigh them both but I just sold the axles from the 7.25” the 8.8 is definitely heavier but cant say how much

Things have been slow around here. Busted a finger doing a brake job on my wife's minivan... woof. Anyway, Nothin' like straddling separate projects. It's the best way to get something done while waiting for parts to ship for another. So while I have pushrods on order, I finally welded up the...

Yeah I figured that was the case. I have the summit G6420s that measure 7.389 in. Guess ill grab a few at 7.5” or longer.

Anyone know if there are “longer than stock” adjuster ball screws for 273 rocker arms? Ran out of thread length getting preload on a few valves

Let me see what price that would be

dropped to $200 + shipping

$250 + shipping costs Lightly used Axle package from DoctorDiff. (<100 miles) https://www.doctordiff.com/axle-pkg-7-1-4-mopar-5x4-1-2-bolt-pattern-pair.html Also comes with lightly used 9" rear drum brake kit.

bye bye 7.25 waiting on hard lines for the 8.8 and some ubolts then I can get that finally installed.

Hughes spacers for my rocker arms… wont be buying from the again. Came in a bag that could easily have been oiled to prevent rust. But a little elbow grease and theyll work. Got the rocker arms installed and prepping my checklist for wrapping up the block. Hopefully ill be dropping the engine...

Body is painted yellow and orange. Curious if anyone knows anything about this transmission rebuilder?

I have the same headers about to go in. Did you have trouble with the z-bar from the auto transmission?

Todays progress. Gettin the kids to work. Got a pushrod measurement of 7.3” - closest ones I see are 7.342 ill order. Also waiting on a hughes order for some shims for the arms

Yeah problem is that I dont have any cup ended pushrods to test with, but thank you for clearing up that side of the measurement for me. I can get a pretty reasonable measurement from the ball to ball style tool pressing it up against the rocker, but definitely feels it'll be off a bit.

My build: 1975 360 LA block Speedmaster heads Custom grind Comp Cam from IMM engines: 234/234 Duration .533 Lift HFT, 108 LSA Howards Anti-pump Hydraulic lifters p/n 0424 Stock 273 Adjustable Rockers on banana shaft arms Looking for pushrod length to order but im curious if anyone has...

Touchupdirect.com had base and clear F3 so I took a chance on it. Turned out decently :thumbsup:

Had a full saturday morning to work on the car so got a few more things wrapped up: 8.8 backing plates, emergency brake, rotors, pads, calipers all installed painted up some more engine bay testing out some variant of flat black engine paint on my valve covers, but not sure I like the idea of...

Well got stuck on valvetrain again. I have some used banana groove shafts coming from Rocket. Meanwhile i was going to install my factory cast rockers to do the breakin since i have the pushrods… but then I noticed the valve stem height is pretty different between intake and exhaust valves. I...

Timing cover installed Water pump installed Alt bracket installed Damper installed Just mocking up the rest to see where issues might be. Head bolts are hand tight so I get measurements on the rockers when those are ready looks like an engine again

Im going to be breaking the cam in on a makeshift runstand so for now I've cut about 1/4" out of the seal and squeezed RTV in where the pieces meet. I know it'll be frowned upon but it's a pretty tight seal now. If it leaks during breakin I'll swap it before the engine drops back in the car...