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The coupler can slide a significant amount along the column. How close are the shoes in the coupler from coming out?

Oh boy, yes they are different it seems. To be clear, I need a 90 degree filter to clear my exhaust. Below is the leak. Is there any way I can make the 90 degree work? Shim the cork gasket?

360 magnum. Oil filter adapter off of a ‘73 318. All surfaces cleaned well. New gasket kit. Copper washer. Torqued to 50 ft lbs. Oil dripping from between bolt head and filter adapter. What to do?

Sounds like not enough initial timing to me.

Yeah, just snag one from any LA or magnum and use it as long as the wear on the gear isn't excessive and the shaft isn't scored up. Some have a pin, some don't. I wouldn't read into too much.

Meaningless semantic distinction but sure

I second that. Pedal effort is lower in my car with that master and discs than it was with the standard drum setup.

You need oem 73-76 11" disc spindles. You can also use FMJ body spindles, which are compatible and work just as well. Slightly taller, that's all.

I would track down a good set of oem spindles. They are out there in heaps. About aftermarket spindles, it depends on the kit so it's hard to say. The Dr. diff kit is a repop of the oem spindles

Semi metallics will grab the hardest but are harder on rotors. Organics will have less stopping power (fine for a cruiser) but easier on the rotors Rotors for 73-76 are reasonably cheap so I don’t think it matters that much

I was thinking of bypassing just to the coil, leaving the box connected through the other side of the 4 pin ballast

Stock mopar electronic ignition. Can I use a pertronix flame thrower ii coil (0.6ohm primary)? If so should I bypass the coil side of the ballast resistor?

Finishing up my 5.9 swap. Going to use 318 manifolds original to my car. Should I use a header gasket? I hate them but I'm wondering if I might need them since these manifolds aren't designed for use with magnum heads.

MAPP gas can work. But just get new plugs.

Are the nuts that hold it to the bottom of the dash tight? There’s two of them.

On the bottom of the lower control arm, head pointing down. No saying how much it will change ride height. This depends on many factors. Also the changes are not immediate, the suspension has to settle after each adjustment (drive down a bumpy road or something). Oh and it can radically effect...

Which would be impossible because the american government would never allow it. It’s all over at this point. The future is filled with shitty pieces of plastic and precious metals mined by children in the name of the environment.

My coupler had no master spline, it slid on in any position relative to the master spline on the box. By slid I mean it started on the splines and required some percussion to get it all the way down.

My eyeball bolt head measurer isn’t calibrated in european :usflag:

Thanks for the pointer, I have a magnum harness kicking around from my 5.9 swap. So you’re basically running a zener that activates the shunt wire when the alt out is 0.7V greater than bat+?

I like my valves to seal. Trashed seats that can't be replaced because of cracked castings prevent that from happening. I tried the slap em together method, and compressed air blew straight past the exhaust valves. I think the majority of magnums that haven't been rebuilt are majorly leaking...

Well well well… They do seem to crack huh (I went through multiple pairs before giving up and buying new castings) Let’s see them exhaust seats.

Yep, it’s a box adjustment.

Mine was 9:1 on the dot with 45 thou headgaskets.

Decent condition, asking $80 + shipping.

Maybe from the retarded cam timing?

Probably just knocked the cam bolts out of alignment in the front. I think you should be able to re-align it and replace that wheel and you'll be fine. Obviously you should check everything.

:rofl: That engine was my daily driver for a year and a half and ran pretty damn good. I was taken aback.

Loose is a social construct.

Alright well it sounds like I will be fine to run the 90 amp if I add a large wire from the charge post on the alternator to the battery post on the starter solenoid or the positive battery post itself. My understanding is that it shunts current away from the firewall connectors.