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Thanks. I may be overthinking this. I thought about a single 100 amp fuse but I would like to avoid a single point of failure. One fan working is better than no fans

Hoping someone can advise or confirm my assumptions. I have 2 electric fans and want to have one fuse per fan. When a fan initially kicks on, it draws 43-44 amps for about a second but then drops to around 20 amps. I already have 2 relays wired with a control module from Dakota. Ideally I...

Doing the same conversion on our car. Where did you end up hooking the hot wire for the tach?

Looking for feedback on the reproduction instrument clusters from Year One or Classic Industries. Not sure if they come from the same place. Reproduction is about the same cost as sending mine off and getting restored but I want to make sure that the quality and fit is good. For a 69 Barracuda.

Should work. I am pretty sure the trunk pans are identical from 67-69.

Same. I accidently placed 2 ads

Rim came from a rust free 69 Barracuda and is almost like new. Very light surface rust where tire bead was in contact with rim. Inner bead width is 4.5" $30 + shipping. Located in Greensboro, GA

Rim is almost like new. Some very light surface rust where bead of tire was in contact with rim. Came out of a California car with no rust. Width across inner bead is 4.5" $40 + shipping. Rim is located in Georgia

Other member decided to pass. Let me know if you are still interested.

All parts came off a 67 Chrysler New Yorker with a 383 and factory air. $25 + shipping for everything. Located in Georgia

$10 + shipping Located in Georgia

I have 2. They have been media blasted and powder coated. $20 each including shipping. Located in Georgia

Original bracket powder coated with new pulley from Year One - never used. $60 includes shipping. Located in Georgia

Parts were new when installed approx. 6 years ago. In good working condition. $100 includes shipping. Located in Georgia.

Includes Brackets, Calipers, and Rotors. Rotors are predrilled for 5 on 4 bolt pattern. Less than 1000 miles on parts. $200 plus shipping. Located in Georgia Link to Scarebird Description of parts: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=143

We just switched to an MSD Ready to Run distributor. You have already done all the hard work. Several good threads that give all the info you need. Basically remove all the old electronic ignition components and extra wires and hook the wires together at the ballast resistor. I unwrapped...

Like your solution. I don't understand why MAD has a double wire going back to the starer relay from under the dash. What did you use for the manual circuit breaker reset?

Engine builder just finished rebuilding our engine. He ran water through it while running it on an engine stand. I would prefer not removing the drain plugs. Not sure how much straight antifreeze to add to get the proper mix.

Still interested if you are willing to ship just the rim to GA. Should be able to ship usps pretty cheap.

Great question I wish I knew the answer too. Currently no engine in the car. All I could do was raise the LCA so there was about a 3/4 gap between the UCA and bump stop. It got slightly closer as I raised the tire.

One more pic

We purchased the new rally wheels from Year One and wanted to post a few pics for anyone considering these rims. We got them to put on a 69 Barracuda and purchased the 8" rims which have 4 1/4 back spacing. First they are great quality and look great. No problems finding tire sizes to fit...

I agree on the proportioning valve. I didn't mean to imply that Scarebirds brakes were not good. I think we may have a bad booster. Got the rear disc brakes from Dr Diff along with new axles. Very good quality.

We just changed all 4 wheels to disc brakes but have not driven the car yet. Previously had rear drum and front disc from Scarebird. Didn't stop great

We did convert the master cylinder and added a 7" booster. We are still undecided on a brake proportioning valve. Seems to be varying opinions on whether one is needed however logic is leaning us towards needing one.

Caliper brackets were media blasted and powder coated so the "ways" are very smooth. I'll check how much pressure needs to be applied to move them. Can the retainers be bent up to relieve pressure?

Thanks. I definitely can't move them by hand. The calipers moved freely until i tightened the retainer bolts. I suspect that the force of the piston when the brakes are applied will move the caliper on the "ways". I was concerned with how the caliper would move back after the brakes are...

We are trying to wrap up a drum to disc brake conversion on the front of a 69 Barracuda. Been quite a few year since I worked on the mid year A body disc brakes. We got all of the necessary parts from a 73-76 donor car and purchased new rotors, pads and calipers. My question is that once...