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I have the air gap, quick fuel 650 DP, extremely happy. Had the Eddy RPM performer before, OK but not close to the air gap league. Good Luck, TT

drop after the break in, oil in cheap compared to your build. I agree with MOPAR, after 100 then drop once again. I've practiced this and it works great. Even after its broke in I change at 1000, might be over kill but I have ZERO problems. Good luck

Why not add this comparison, stroked 416 or 408 with the same internals heads etc., now the 340 trumps per cubic inch.

I have a PTC 3500 with a HD Trans cooler with 3:55's, This is a great combo for the street, runs awesome and still turn high 12's

Air Gap, Cam- IMO no more than 484 if it is a stock TC with or without new KB 107's, 30 over would be perferable. Moper nailed it, but I kinda like old school purples!

Air gap, I have a pair of J's (71's) available..

11.45 on the juice, 12.42 engine. "gears"

Pops6T6, I agree with Rusty and Mopar on this, and most everyone has their own advise building their preferences but I believe it's necessary benefit to know your CR. I would zero beck the block per Rusty, great info!!! What he wrote is exactly what was done to my 340, CR is about 10.25 to 1...

tHANKS RUMBLE, AS ALWAYS I APPRECIATE YOUR KNOWLEDGE.. I WILL LET YOU KNOW WHAT THIS PROJECT IS COMPLETED.

Guys, thanks a bunch for the advice, I believe if it was going to pop it would have long ago, especially spinning to 7200 plus. Factory rods rumble, going to perform a clay check and see what I have, spray some pam or non stick. I'm concerned about the Hyd lifters, solid would be my choice. Any...

I agree with forged if I plan on shooting nitros, I'm just trying to improve an already sturdy and dependable engine.

Moper, I was thinking the same. the compress is in the low 10's. I would like to bump to 10.5 to 1. If I go that route why don't I just replace the pistons? any recommendations for pump gas.

Hi all, I'm in the process of exchanging my uncut J's to the RHS Heads stage 1 through Shady. I purchased the car after the bottom end was completed. After opening up the engine last eve I notice KB HyperT's with valve reliefs. Without miking it appears to be 005 positive deck. I'm familiar...

I've been told I'm over cammed also, purple 508 in my 340. I solved that issue with a 3500 PTC! Its not sluggish now.. Younggun, thats sweet sounding, I like!! Can someone tell me how to post a vid?

Brad Penn, I push it hard and holds up great.

I suggest this, have the owner drive while you video tape from the rear. Make sure he hammers it through at least three gears. Look at the video, check for SMOKE!! If that looks good and things are tight no more than $10,000 (1976) if 1973 back then it would be more. BTW its a nice looking car.

I concur with RustyRatRod, ditch the performer!! best to upgrade now, little more cost with less aggrevation in the future. Look at Quick Fuel Carbs, no egr, 600 manual choke. This is a disease, you will always want more power..

I just installed the air gap, Im removed mine and it runs strong, 14X3. Could have a small vapor lock problem without the spacer, I would try without the spacer and use the 14X4, see what happens. I think you will be happy, but after you shut it off and try to restart it you might experience...

TQ converter has a lot to do with performance, I would go higher on the stall (2800) purple cam is old tech but still good, but I definatley agree with the other gentlemen, whats the duration and lift, I run a 292/508 in my 340 with a PTC 3500 stall and I'm very happy, but definatley needed the...

Hi guy, I appreciate all the feedback. 1/8 mph 79-81, performer not RPM. Yeah, it's a mix bag but it runs good. I personally contacted quick fuel and gave them all the engine specs before I ordered.

Sorry guys, "70" 340 block, forged crank, J heads stock 2.02/160, 292/508 purple, TCI 727 Auto with PTC 3500, 8 3/4, 489 with 742 3.55 SG, Quick Fuel DP 650. All new parts from the heater core up, below and back. Car is Mechanically sound, no leaks or problems. Ever since I replaced the TQ from...

I would like your opinion: Im looking for more power and didn't know if exchanging the intake from a performer to a RPM air gap and at the same time increasing my DP from a 650 to 750 would be worth the investment? Car ran 8.5 with street tires, sure that would go down if I could have hooked...

My suggestion is just know what you want before you start, it gets rather expensive if you change "gears" in the middle. Best of luck.

Rumble fish 360, my apologies if I offended you! I think it was just bad timing when I posted, the most important choice has already been made (MOPAR) I live about an hour north of Jacksonville FL, transplant from up north.

Reading what you wrote, find a 340! I have had 360 and 340, my choice is for a few extra dollars you don't have to worry about fooling anyone or try fitting 10 lbs into a 5 lb bag. Plus your resale value with a 340 puts you way ahead of the 360!

Update, I just drove the car for the first time with my new PTC 3500, also first time I've driven with a higher stall. The car rocks out of the hole now, the 8-3/4, 323 posi really bark now, easy to lay down yards of tread marks. I have a Trans cooler that should help keep my TCI in running...

I have the same cam, TC change today, went with a PTC (3500) if this doesn't help then its cam change time for me also, most likely comp 268-484 variable.. I have a post going, I'll comment on the change later.

AdamR, low profile tires, I'll check and get the exact height. I agree with your choice of cam, that may well be the next step, I will know tomorrow if the PTC (3500) wakes this up..

Just recieved my new TC, lets see if this cures my problem