Big cam in a big cube motor works good. I wouldn't call that cam too big. Put it in a 318 and we're talkin' problems! tmm
Supposedly overcammed works out.....
- Thread starter Abodybomber
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younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
I have the exact definition of over cammed.
stock bottom end 383hp. 9:1 comp. if im lucky
eddy 84cc heads with full port/polish from indy
m1 intake with 750 proform carb
4000 stall with 4.11 rear gear
cam is 294* advertised 254 at .050 .525 lift with 1.5 comp cams pro mag roller rockers. after i got the tune in the ball park she really suprised me. runs hard till the rev limiter @ 6800 rpm. sounds pretty nasty too.
[ame=http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo147/johnnydart_photo/Drivingthedodge_zps405f25dd.mp4]
[/ame]
stock bottom end 383hp. 9:1 comp. if im lucky
eddy 84cc heads with full port/polish from indy
m1 intake with 750 proform carb
4000 stall with 4.11 rear gear
cam is 294* advertised 254 at .050 .525 lift with 1.5 comp cams pro mag roller rockers. after i got the tune in the ball park she really suprised me. runs hard till the rev limiter @ 6800 rpm. sounds pretty nasty too.
[ame=http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo147/johnnydart_photo/Drivingthedodge_zps405f25dd.mp4]
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Overcammed or not, that sucka sounds awesome younggun-what bottom end are you running in your 383?
Not too big for a 383. Sounds good. tmm
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
Factory forged crank and rods. Rods resized and bushed. Flash ground and shot peened rods. Billet steel main caps and align honed with studs. Speed pro forged piston with moly rings. Stock deck. Not cut. I built the engine 11 years ago when I was 19. Didn't know much about building engines. It sat in my house on a stand for almost 10 yrs and just got it going this spring. Thanks for the kind words.
Young Gun,If that's a 294s Comp solid, no apologies needed. Good grind. I have seen more camshaft ,on a 9:1 383. Actually,a sweetheart of a can Have one in reserved,for a LA.
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
Thanks. When I put this top end on a 470 that's when the fun will start.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Have you had opportunity to run it as is the 1/4 yet?
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
no i have not had it out on the track yet. no glass in the car yet. just got it registered last month fort he first time in 10yrs. just got it insured also. i have been working on it every night for the last 3 months trying to make it out this season. i just got the fans set up this week. i have had it out around my neighborhood but only for a few min. at a time. have to watch the temps. my dads demon runs 10.50s and my car freaked him out a bit. my car is very light and when i let the pressure down in the rear tires it hooks pretty good. here is a little video of me out in it a few weeks ago.
[ame]http://youtu.be/ovfE81ZxH2k?t=2m41s[/ame]
I know....it's a brand X, but here's the story. A guy in high school had a 73 Nova with a big block in it. He got drunk and wrecked it so his parents made him get rid of it. I got it super cheap, fixed it up and did a simple rering on the engine. It was a 1972 402, which was way down in the 8s on compression. I had another friends father do some port work on the heads and I put the old SS 310 NC crane solid grind in it. 310/320 .610/.620 and matching springs and all. I went from a 3.08 to a 4.11. I got that car deep in the 12s with some borrowed slicks. Plus it sounded shag *** nasty. and I didn't do a damn thing for compression.
That kinda stuff to me is really cool. It's old school. Everybody used to do it. That was the first thing everybody saved their money for. A cam. A BIG cam. And I know lots of people stabbed um in with old valve springs. And they worked....at least good enough to have fun with on the street.
That kinda stuff to me is really cool. It's old school. Everybody used to do it. That was the first thing everybody saved their money for. A cam. A BIG cam. And I know lots of people stabbed um in with old valve springs. And they worked....at least good enough to have fun with on the street.
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
i download my videos to either youtube or photobucket. then you just copy and paste the video link in your post.
thanks for the kind words. even if the car only runs 12s when i get it to the track i will still be happy. when i have the car out im sure people think twice before they try to pick a fight with the dart.
thanks for the kind words. even if the car only runs 12s when i get it to the track i will still be happy. when i have the car out im sure people think twice before they try to pick a fight with the dart.
1970 La
Well-Known Member
I was not thinking my current cam is to big. It was a regrind from my old 9-1 360 that had a 305h comp cam in. Changed it to a 508 mopar cam and was dissapointed it slowed down.
Hope to see you guys in Cedar Falls this year. Keep us posted!
MOPARoldtimer
Banned
In my 408 with 10.5:1 compression, I'm running a Comp Cams CRS 292H-10 with a 727 TorqueFlite and a 2,200 stall converter.
Total lift: .501. 292 degrees duration at .006 and 244 degrees at .050; .334 lift at .050.
I sure wouldn't want a bigger cam with the automatic and this converter. It is supposed to be a street car! It will barely idle.
Total lift: .501. 292 degrees duration at .006 and 244 degrees at .050; .334 lift at .050.
I sure wouldn't want a bigger cam with the automatic and this converter. It is supposed to be a street car! It will barely idle.
That's because your combo is NOT overcammed. It's UNDER converted. ...and badly. It can stand a heap more cam....long as you add a heap more converter.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Just an opinion here, but I think you might benefit from more stall. I would've guessed a 10.5:1 stroker would eat up that duration pretty well. What did you set your ICL at?
txstang84
Well-Known Member
You beat me to it lol
Ignition timing will play a big part in how that engine will idle. A 408 with that cam should not have much issue idling.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Doh!!
Will do! tmm
MOPARoldtimer
Banned
RustyRatRod wrote: "That's because your combo is NOT overcammed. It's UNDER converted."
Thanks for the advice, Rusty. I don't want to hijack the thread, but how high a stall speed do you think is desirable in a car driven on the street? I don' think I want to have to rev up to 3,000 before it would connect.
Thanks for the advice, Rusty. I don't want to hijack the thread, but how high a stall speed do you think is desirable in a car driven on the street? I don' think I want to have to rev up to 3,000 before it would connect.
A "GOOD" converter is going to run in the 500-700 range.
Talk to a converter company, Dynamic, Ultimate, A1, and give them the specs on your engine and a dyno sheet if you have one. A good converter won't act like mush down low. That's 80's style stuff. Converters have come a long way.
What's the initial timing on the engine? If you total timed it, that's your first problem!
Talk to a converter company, Dynamic, Ultimate, A1, and give them the specs on your engine and a dyno sheet if you have one. A good converter won't act like mush down low. That's 80's style stuff. Converters have come a long way.
What's the initial timing on the engine? If you total timed it, that's your first problem!
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
its about efficiency. you can get a 4000 stall that will still be streetable. I have a dynamic converter. 10.5" 4200 stall. it actually cruises at lower rpm then the previous 3500 stall converter i had. but when you load it up and flash the converter it revs way up and grabs hard. i would get on the phone with some builders. be honest with your specs and what you want from the car. they guys at dynamic set me up right and it has been the best $600 i spent on the car. when it comes to stall converters you get what you pay for.
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