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run 91 and snow performance system with bug juice

If it pulls to 6000+ RPM stay with the cam that is in there.

800 hp 318.

I'm not seeing a problem.

I'm glad you got puzzle figured out.

I would say Odd but not uncommon. In a mass produced setting wrong stuff can get passed off as the right part. It is up to the installer to be careful as you are doing. That is how great engines are built. Don't be afraid to take a part back to the store or toss it when in doubt.

you don't want them too loose or they will knock out the ring land on the piston and if they are to tight they will start sticking. They gum up alot easier. result will be another tear down. when it start blowing oil after 10k miles. I would really look at another box of ring's. Just FYI

How do they feel installed on the piston.

Ditto

with a knife sharping stone with a little oil as lube for the stone. use a new stone so it will be flat.

Go for it. but if you are planing on racing it you need to think about what class you are going to run. (down the road) some classes are limited to tire size. ladder bar only with coil over's. drag radial's. No four link's. some are not NHRA but do have the NHRA safety rules. If your going to...

make sure there is no clearance problems on the intake manifold and valve cover it's self. that will cause a leak.

I have seen real good and bad new from the factory and that is on all the big three manufactures during the seventy's and eighty's because of there interest in increased production and less quality control. A part that has been rebuilt should have been checked for these type of problem's and a...

Well, yes if they are paying attention. to test it first take all cap's and bearing's out on all of them except the ends leave these on and torqued down. set up a dial indicator with a solid base on each crank journal(center journal's). turn the crank and observe the readings on each one. after...

I agree with marksmopar1. crank's need to be perfect for the longevity of the motor. when I was taught how to build motors over 35 year's ago those old school motor heads were using non detergent motor oil (30w) for engine assembly lube and they never had any bearing failure. they said assembly...

Bearing's have heat mark's (lack of oil-oil also cool's). crank install was not to tight so it has oil clearance. so I would say there is a lubrication problem to the crank.

Crank was good

Going back the the crank install. when you bolted down all the cap's and then turned the crank to install the rods did you need a bar to turn the crank (to tight.no oil clearance) or just use a screw driver or maybe just by hand with a little restriction.

Yes to all of the above

Sounds like you wont be thrown off of a track for not having a SFI. It's got to be good or they would not be building it. I agree with RRR, Go for it and have some fun!!

Does it have a SFI cert. If not and your not going to race it and keep it under 5000k RPM you SHOULD be ok