Search results for query: *

Your kidding , right ? Nobody so far ? This is A Bodies Only - I'm used to getting responses/answers within minutes ! Don't make me go to Mofarts.com guys ......

I've seen (on the internet) crank pulleys painted blue and black - which is correct ? I believe WP pulleys are black , but .............

Yep - pretty sure it's a 72 spec motor. Odd that the block is stamped 70 and serials reflect April of 71 build. Also motor is blue to the bone , no hints of orange anywhere. Guess I'll live with it for now - need to get back on my Dart and will probably sell the Roadrunner to finance the Dart...

Whoa ! Just found this great read on another site - I know I've got the weenie heads , just need to I.D. the pistons (?) or were ALL cast crank 340's the 8.5:1 or was there a run of cast 10.5:1 motors ? Hey, Just rebuilt my 1972 340 over the summer and it runs great now -- meaning I...

Just checked - cast crank motor. How do I tell if it's a 10.5:1 vs the 8.5:1 ? Don't mind pulling heads - but all runs well as she sits (little smoke at start ups after sitting - will be replacing seals). I'm on a really tight budget for this resto due economic conditions resulting in job...

That's what I guessed - just hoping for the higher compression motor. Like I said, a little disappointing not being numbers matching, but if I got a better motor (performance wise) I won't cry about it, just know the heads are suffocating the poor thing if it's a 10.5:1 motor .............. only...

CW340P33740473 from drivers side below head - I believe a 70 block built in 71 ? - What will I be looking for if I pull heads and/or oil pan to determine if I have the 70 rotating assy ?

Just pulled the 340 from a 73 Roadrunner I bought (I know it's a B body, but there's more advice here) ..... anyway, I knew the 73 motor was a wheezer but, lo and behold, I got a '70 block (and hoping internals) , but rest of the assembly (727, heads, exhaust man., intake man., all 73 correct)...

Well , somebody had to say it I guess. I can freshen it up myself here at home if it doesn't need boring , and would be a good idea when I pull to paint engine bay, I know al this. My focus was best route to go with original 340 in this heavy car to gain decent performance - I still like the...

I'm going to look into the turbo thing - my Darts a built 340 4-spd car, fun, fun, fun. I'd like to do something different with the RR, and turb'd be cool, cruise nice, show well and maybe have some go power as well ? Looks like I could turbo cheaper than the full peformance rebuild do all the...

Didn't cross my mind but now that it's been mentioned, a turbo down the road would be cool. Since the car doesn't need a rebuild, has low comp, and plenty of room for hardware ....... and the "cool" factor. What would th eperformance gain be ? How would the car "feel" with a turbo vs a...

I knew the stroking thing would come up - not going that route. I need to up the compression, no doubt - not sure best route for that .........

I still have my 70 340 Swinger - but couldn't pass a deal on a 73 Roadrunner - all original 340 car, bone stock except for an Edelbrock 750. Being heavier - and "neutered" in 73 - it's a dog compared to the Dart. I would do a 440 swap, but it's a 95,000 mile original so .... what can I do to get...

Got the "nipple" out of the 90* last night w/1" six-point and air ratchet - it's the same, and will use in the block with the Canton filter plate.

Part #3671602 - 24.00

10-4. I still can't find the part number for the "stud" that the filter screws to. Mancini couldn't even help "may not be available". I need it by this weekend - may know someone with an old 360 I can steal off of if I have no luck.

I can't imagine how anyone could warp the 90 degree adapter - sure you're not thinking of the filter "plate". The 90 I have is heavy solid cast (as they all are with exception of aftermarket aluminums).

Not this one - I had read that in my research as well - this is round inside and 3/8 won't fit, regardless .

Thanks - actually have the Canton part on order and am expecting delivery by week's end - that's why I was asking. Local dodge dealer is worthless - anybody know a part # for this (pre-magnum, or all the same ?) If I can remove this one - I'm assuming it'll work ?

So I'm eliminating the adapter - from what I understand I will be removing the threaded filter retainer (circled in "sublime" below:) and this will thread through plate and into block - correct ? I gave it a shot this weekend (!" socket) and couldn't budge it, but wasn't "serious" at the...

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2256

Will do - Canton plate is 48.00 but found one in the "garage sale" section on the website for 25.00 ! Rep said possible scratches in the anodized finish (likeTHAT'S gonna show !). I could use a part number for the shorty filter if anyone's got it handy.

Just spoke with TTI - shorty filter will clear - calling Canton and wrapping this up. I swear I see no imperfections on the mating surfaces, but there's gotta be something going on. They also recommended orange citrus degreaser for the baked on oil, I'll give it a shot !

According to TTI I have to use the adapter for clearance or go remote. Is there anyone here running TTI headers on a 340 that does NOT have the 90 and how's clearance ? What adapter/filter. I need this done this week and the 90 ain't getting it obviously (I've had them before without issue as...

The saga continues. I replaced all gaskets, used High Tack as recommended - tightened as tight as I could, all was well for about 50-60 miles of driving. On the way to a show yesterday a buddy behind me mention occasional puffs of white smoke from passenger side, couldn't quite pinpoint when I...

That looks familiar - I pulled a Comp 268 out of a low mileage 340 last summer that looked similar, no real polish to the surfaces - looked dull and had small "bubbles" (pinholes) over much of the surfaces - I guess porous metal fits the description, but not sure why it looked that way. Looked...

No dude, YOU are the man .... thanks again.

SoulSurvivor, you are the man. Are all these available at Advanced/Napa, etc ? I noticed I am missing the one that goes under the bolt head (but leak was around base) Anyway - I'll give it a shot this week, thanks. May consider the Canton if any issues after this.

Yes 1 3/16 works w/6" extension - scraping gasket material from the block was not easy as my hand would barely get in there - advice - single edged razor blades and oil (and blood) don't mix ! Sharpened putty knife much safer.

I'm doing it now - may be 1 1/8 but I used 1 3/16 - torsion bar should come out to do this right, what a pain with it in cleaning the block surface. I got a dumb question - I didn't drain the oil because I figured the level was below adapter/filter. Why did I lose so much oil after filter then...