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I got a tuff stuff 60a alternator this summer and the damn thing wouldn’t charge at idle. Even with their voltmeter. Failed a field test. Got a new one and had it tested before I put it on the car, failed again. Went to another shop and tested it there just in case, failed. Still heard nothing...

alright, will def do that tomorrow. I don't wanna fry my battery. thanks you've been very helpful :)

yes I disconned the alternator and grounded it out, the alt came on and when I reved the engine, the ammeter went up. I took off the plug for the volt reg. and checked continuity between the wires, they came out good and I put dielectric grease in it and plugged it back in. Now my alt is always...

it died again today, started to check the wires, the green wire has 12v when the key is turned on. where does that wire goto?

I checked everything, my master cylinder was slightly leaking and got fluid on my voltage reg wires shorting it out

ok thanks so much I'll get to it in the next 2 days

So I lost all charging from my alternator while driving home. was wondering where I should start looking for the problem

sounds like a loose/frayed wire somewhere grounding out and you're getting no resistance resulting in a blown fuse. time to trace wires

I'll take a picture of it when I come back from vacation

oh it's in the driver's side kick panel right under the fuse block

it looks like a female round plug, kinda like the one for the licence plate light. I did check the bulbs one was blown out so I bought a new pair, cleaned up the terminals and connections and put dielectric grease in them

Well I did alot of searching and come across it has to be somewhere in the area of the Fuse block. The fuse is getting 11.68v and when I probe the connector that is there that runs all the back lights it's .9v So there's something going on. for some odd reason it connects from a white/black wire...

alright thanks for the diagrams and everything else guys. cross my fingers it's only a dirty connection

well I have no back up lights, and I just changed my Neutral safty switch, got a 2nd one, and neither of them restore the lights. so this weekend I am going to start tracing the wires to find the problem. I don't have a good wiring diagram for this so I don't know when power is applied to it. is...

well I checked every wire and all connectors. Found the problem (not the bulkhead) it actually was the connector to the driver's side headlight, the crimp in the connector was bad, after some fiddling and swearing I got it out, recrimped it with a lil di-electric grease, and it's all better

alright I will check out the harness there at the left light. I have 12v coming out of the floorswitch for the low beams. I really am hoping it's not the bulkhead. if it is where do I get a new one?

So I was driving home lastnight and I have no clue why. I stil get 12v out of my footswitch on my switch. All my other lights are a ok and have good ground, where should I look next

oh I did just in case, everything seemed stil ok, no melting just a bit of corrosion, I cleaned it and die electric greased it. what would be a good update for it?

well found the problem it was under the dash. apparently the connectors from the bulkhead into the fuseblock was loose. took them out and recrimped the end connections and put a lil di electric grease. Everything came back on, pulled at the wires to check if they'll go out and they stayed on...

oh sorry redfish I have 1970 Valiant with a 318, mostly stock,aftermarket radio and electronic points. Replaced the Alt. about 4 months ago

alright I'll start to check out those things, what's the ceramic box though?

so I was driving home about 30 mins ago and when I came to a stop my dash lights got brighter and went normal, few seconds later they were gone, so was my radio and along with my 4 ways, my side marker, and brake lights. my headlights and turn signals stil work fine. wanted to get input about...

slantscamp sounds right on the money. I had that problem and relayed the headlights and it stopped. the relays can be bought at pepboys for like $12 a pop. Or you can goto the junkyard, then you can get the connectors as well. easy as pie to put on. Also you can get LED's for the lights in your...

where did you tie into the radio at? depending on where you spliced in at. Also what kind of headlights do you have?

sounds like you have constant power to the turn signal relay hence it getting too hot. you might want to get a test light and see if there is constant power to it. if there is just follow the wire back to the battery, you might have a spot that the cover of the wire is open and it is melted with...

yes I did have them before the switch, apparently the switch I got from advanced auto is made poorly and do not let the lights come on. I bought one from work (I work at a chrysler dealership now) and I'll see if that'll work

alrighty, will do, some guy at work said I should just put a jumper between the 2 wires and see if my lights turn on when I put the key in. apparently if they do I need another new switch ( I do think this one might be bad because I stil have to sometimes put it in neutral to start it)

just realized tonight I don't have any backup lights. this past weekend I put in a new neutral safty switch, if I put the boot on backwards would they not light up? just wanted to know before I start to poke around this weekend

alrighty, is the factory radio one a yellow wire?

anyone know a good source for main and acc power for an aftermarket radio, either that or should I run a power wire from the batt to it and instal a relay for the acc?