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I would also recommend not painting it flat black, but anyways When we scuff cars at work for a color change we use gray scotchbrite and Transtart Ruff Stuff PN: 6337 I believe, But if I was dry scuffing it(without the paste) I would use red, but the scuff paste helps getting into the hard to...

dam that looks nice!

thanks everyone for the input, I had no idea of this guy, sounds like a great deal!

is jeff a amd dealer or something? I'll see if you I can dig up his number

Hey guys I'm looking at finally purchasing a set of outer wheel wells and trunk extensions \THEY ARE FINALLY AVAILABLE!!!!! for my 69 cuda, Anyways I noticed Yearone has the outer wheel wells for 129.99 vs amd's 150? Are they all made from the same place and just a different catalog? or is it...

Good luck with a warranty most shops around here including the one I work at dont warranty any rust repair. 4k for a quality job with rust repair is a deal.

I sprayed it at work on a charger and it actually came out with some grit in it, it ended up being in the primer itself, that was the only time I'd used it. We ended up getting it resolved, it was a bad batch but just something to keep in mind. We have yet to spray the new stuff but hey stuff...

thats kind of what I was thinking...

+1 at the shop I work at we use transtar poly primer, fills GREAT! In the long run it will save you money vs filling everything with a glaze or such, normally If we have to do any 'skim coatings' its with glaze and Evercoats metal stuff is expensive as hell around $25 a bottle, its insane.

I've kept my eyes open too, nothing yet.

Any good frame tech should be able to get it fixed up just fine, too bad your not closer, my dad actually does this kind of stuff(frame tech) been doing it for 30 years, owned his own shop for 20 years. Have any pics of the gaps so we can see it? Good luck!

Looks great! Love the look of a vinyl top on most cars, especially yours. Also Loved the insider info that was posted:-D

ah is that the year they changed, I was looking into that one day while in school, looked up the paint codes for the different years of b5, i was pretty suprised, also kind of upset, since the paint i got was b5 but from a 73 duster, didnt know there was a difference, since that is what my...

those are some good looking photos guys, love the duster^^^^

Im not sure about that specific seam sealer but we use 3m at my work, we always prime the area first though then put the seam sealer down, that way if for some reason moisture gets under it, or it cracks you wont just hold moisture on bare metal, this is how the factory did it and under almost...

I go down to the local menards, they have both specific sand blasting sand, but its expensive 7-9 bucks a bag, and very heavy duty, my dad and I have been using silica sand, says its for making concrete I believe way finer and half the price, hell a couple weeks ago they had it on super sale for...

please do not use any rattle can primers. I work at a body shop and we just had a 72 stang came in that some guy did all his own work...terrible. First off, before I started doing this kind of stuff I was all for DIY, but after having to fix peoples stuff its a REAL big hassle, I can even see...

no black unless your going to paint the car black, thats a chevy thing...why relate to them :-D Body color!

its called body FILLER LOL sorry that is a pet peeve of mine, people calling it bondo....awh. anyways Its not for filling, I would do as recomended either fiberglass or weld in a pannel, welding is the best IMO. Then grind the welds, sand blast, check for pin holes, then coat with Mars glass...

for 2500 you cant beat that! looks good, i agree with body color wheels and dog dishes....love that look

If its bare metal I just apply Filler right on that, then apply a coat of epoxy then the next day come back and spray it with a high build primer to be blocked. Then when you go to block once you hit the epoxy stop sanding that area(same concept as if you hit metal). As stated all bodymen are...

dang! sorry to hear about the accident gotta love a wagon! Good luck finding a donner or making a pannel

Ouch get that welded up, i had to do this on my cuda but i dont think i have any photos

Not for sure on which blue it is, i think b5 but ive seen the 65s in that color....LOOK AWESOME!!!!! oh and with the black stripes too

good info, now i know!:read2:

I wouldnt waist money on stripper, i used that stuff on my cuda hood, took forever and vs the time it took vs a da with 40 g, da was WAY FASTER. Plus you will never get all of it off, i had to go over the place the stripper was, so i waisted money anyways. Da paper is cheap, stripper is like...

assuming its very much like media/soda, it cannot be used to blast any rust, just paint off of the metal. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51730

I have never seen a hood scoop to hood bond ever last, ever. Not to disappoint you ive seen many shops do it, along with mine, we put a cowl hood on my boss' chevy truck, did everything overkill and it still ended up cracking. IT WILL eventually crack, is all i can say from what ive seen. We...

Also keep in mind not ALL clear is mixed 4:1, I've used Transtar clear thats 2:1, and you have to add aprox. 10% of reducer, lays out good, but once you wet sand n buff (a must in any paint job...to look good, imo) Looks great and isnt very expensive, they dont sell it in galons, its a metric...

Holy cow 2 GALONS to paint a car :lol: it shouldnt take that much, remember on a base/clear job you reduce the paint 1/1 so with a galon you have 2 galons RTS(ready to spray) which is more then enough to do a car, probably even enough to do a huge Fury III. I did my 89 daytona with...