Fastest way for a scuff and squirt paint job

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Andre68

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So my brother has a pt cruiser. He wants to paint it flat black because he saw how my 68 dart came out. Now my 68 dart was blocked and primed more times than I can count and really spent some time trying to get that thing right. Having to completely sand down paint jobs until I started getting good results.

Now there's nothing wrong with my brothers car paint and body, just wants a color change. I'm wondering what the fastest way to go about a scuff and squirt. This is kinda just his commuter car until we restore his cuda and then this car is probably gonna be sold for cheap.

Any idea? Maybe DA sander with 1000 grit? I don't really want to block the car with 220-320 unless that's the only way.
 

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A scuff and squirt is just that: 400-600grit rub, rinse, spray.


Have you thought about doing some plasti-dip instead?
 
we have thought of plasti dip but didnt really wanna take that route.

can that be 400-600 on a DA? or by hand?
 
That dip looks fun, Wagner PowerPainter and a gallon of tool dip.... Spray it right over rust and clearcote check! Check out my post on same subject.
 
Do it logically.
Red scotch brite is used if you are going to paint the car red, blue scotch brite for blue, green for green, etc.
That's what the blonde lady at the parts store told me anyway........
 
unless the Pt is a real POS don't do any redneck paint jobs, around my area 05 PT's are still selling for $5000+ you will make the potential to sell later none existent unlike your car someone would buy it if it is flat black. do a good job and go with a shinny color
 
Well it's a salvage title and my bro bought it for $1,900 hahah this thing is not really worth much, it's probably not gonna pass smog cat when bad
 
One thing before you scuff, wipe it down with wax grease dirt and tar remover so you don't scuff that into the paint.
 
+1 on wax + grease/tar remover used to clean the entire surface to be scuffed. +1 on scotchbrite pad, grey is what I use most and is less abrasive than red. If I can't wash the car after scuffing, I use a blow gun to remove most of the dust, then sprayway ammonia-free glass cleaner for an initial clean before final wax/grease remover and tack off, along with masking everything off.
 
i have a quick question on this topic. if i want to repaint a trunk lid the same color because the clear is peeling. can i just scuff and spray on the base coat? do i need to prime?
 
^You don't need basecoat if its just the clear. I'd advise sanding the clear off, 180-220 finishing with 400 and starting fresh since the area is so small.

You don't need primer. Only time you need primer is sealing metal, sanding for shape, or hiding color from a new paint job.
 
I would also recommend not painting it flat black, but anyways When we scuff cars at work for a color change we use gray scotchbrite and Transtart Ruff Stuff PN: 6337 I believe, But if I was dry scuffing it(without the paste) I would use red, but the scuff paste helps getting into the hard to scuff areas, put some of the paste on a tooth brush and brush it into places like around the door handles and around glass and whatnot, But your best bet is to remove all of these items for a color change.

Also as asked previously on clear peeling, If I was to fix it at the shop I would start by taking an air blower and see how much I can get to come off, next would be razor blade, and see how much comes off and delaminates. yes you can use a razor blade and not scratch the hell out of everything if you are careful. Next would be to depending on how hard it sands, it shouldn't be the bad, I would use either 120, 180 or 220, hell if its really easy to sand 320, but your final sand paper used should be 320 (imo) then a couple light coats of primer, I've seen guys try and cut corners(something Im not a fan of but to each his own) and not prime where there is a feather edge, like a clear edge and sometimes you can see it, I would say 9/10 you would see it, but it all depends on how picky you are, I would say I am VERY picky, why do it half *** and have it look alright vs doing it right the first time. if your looking at saving money and not sealing, you can value shade your primer to what color paint you are using that way you just wet sand or dry sand your primer and spray paint right over top. I would recommend primer though since its the best way IMO. Good luck guys
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Fastest way I know of... Scotch Brite, Vinegar Wash, Rinse, Let Dry Completely and paint.
Click to expand...


Sounds like a woman taking car of her "private part"... Scotch brite, vinegar douche, rinse, and dry... LOL! :toothy2:
 
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