Search results for query: *

You can't tell from your pics...but the Competition plus shifter is after market. I'm not positive whether the throw on the levers is a bit shorter or not, but I do know the Comp Plus has a different diameter bushing has well as different rods to the trans. Also the Comp Plus, has an adjustable...

The best way to set it up is by aligning the shifter itself in neutral. Look at the pics, you will see a small hole at the bottom of the shifter box...I can't remember the dia. at the moment, but you need to slide a drill bit through all the levers. This will be your neutral position for all...

Love the Brewer's crew myself. That was going to be my next suggestion, being that I saw you were from Ohio. All the best! Giles

Is the pressure plate clean and dry? no oil on it or on friction disc ? Pilot bushing good? Did you check alignment? It could be numerous reasons.

^^^ What he said, most CenterForce clutch/pressure plate setups, recommend removing the over-center spring.

Your retainer # is "C94796" not 094796. Your taillshaft is correct for an A body, and it's a '72 trans. A fair price...disassembled...$150., assembled and usable $350., rebuilt, bolt in with warranty $850., if it looks like this on the outside My .02, hope this helps.

Brewer's is great with 833's, that's all they do, http://www.brewersperformance.com/.

Yup, they come in handy.

Even the adjustable stops won't help in this case, as the stops are only for 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th. the reverse can only be set via the neutral gate, it's a question of alignment. I've got mine too easy to slide in to reverse at this point, I'd like to narrow it down and make it harder, but...

No probs., I just want to see a video of it when it's time.

That's what I used, Lithium grease.

I strongly oppose a Hay's, here's a 4K pressure plate, with no 1/4 mile runs, just the odd "let'er rip". http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/aa59/340butterduster/Transmission%20rebuild/?action=view&current=IMG_1091.jpg Kinda embarassing to say the least, smoking clutches not tires.

Anything but a Hay's, Center force dual friction is working great for me at this point.

You need to find a seven digit number. The earliest number (1964), is 2464261 and go up assending numbers ie: 3780234 for a 1974.

I loved mine, no "springy" feeling, nice firm and short throws. I put the factory original handle back in, sure feels different shifting with that long rod.

Yes it does react to temperature, like every other metal, they expand in heat and contract in cold. Some more then others...Ask me how I know.

A quick tric here; stick the bushing in the freezer (a couple hours), it will shrink it a bit. If you can find a 3/4" x 1" cap screw to use as a driver, as the dia. of the cap screw will give just the right amount of clearance not to damage the inside dia. of the bushing, and the shoulder of...

I'm trying out Royal Purple gear oil, not enough driven miles to gage, but so far so good.

I finally got my Centerforce Dual friction in (over-center spring removed), a couple weeks ago. I haven't driven it much so far, but what a difference compared to the Hays POS. It feels great, I'm breaking it in slowly.

My choice would no doubt have to be the '833', as I have no idea what an -883- is,...

I tried to post my answer last night, but got shutdown by thunderstorm. I'm no expert, but I believe that if you want to keep the push-in (bayonet), you'll likely need to find a used original gear selector. Or drill out the bottom hole for the standard handle. Best advice I can give is...

I can't help you with that one, unless you feel like counting. I only have dates up to June 30 1974 which is 4720. Going by those figures you should be somewhere around mid October of 1975.

I had nothing but problems with the Hays street/strip, I rate it a 2 on a 10 scale, the OEM clutch worked better with some 50k's on it. I pulled the Hays a couple weeks ago (4,000 miles on it)...

Good luck with your build, show us some pics as you progress. I was planning to do so, and hopefully will be accompanied with it's first driveway burnout video. After a few break-in miles of course.

I always find some really helpful info here just by asking, guys like Longone and many other members, otherwise I find some here and there. This site is great for resources and concourse judging ... http://www.mmcdetroit.com/ICCA/References/Inspection_Marks/Inspection_marks_1_23_2003-1.html.

After close inspection, I found "751" stenciled in white, the large white "X" on top of housing. White inspection marks in three different areas, one by the tailshaft mounting bolts, one by the shifter mounting plate... Blue inspection mark by the top rear gear lever. Light green...

3769 is Nov. 22, 1972

The Date for 4221 is, Feb. 16, 1973.

If you look at the handle closely, from where it comes out of the shifter mechanism, the first 90 deg bend, to bring it back to the horizontal plane, when looking at it from the top, that elbow ends up being behing the shifter mechanisms, therefore throwing the shifter ball "Somewhat" towards...

I definately have the remnants of a cross on it, can't really tell what color and I would say it was an inspection mark. Keep them coming, I'm still looking at it as close as I can to replicate the original.