Need Clutch Guru Help !

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A340

A340

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When I purchased this car I was told there was a new Center Force Clutch & PresPlate installed. The car had some Z-Bar linkage issues but I took care of that. But what I noticed most was, when half way power shifting the car did not have a significate power bang to it. It just eased it's way into gear. No way could you chirp the tires or bang the dash. I just figured it was worn or a bad Pressure plate. When I tore it down, it was indeed a Centerforce. It looked good, no hot spots, still plenty of coating left on the disc. The flywheel looked good also. No warpage or burn spots appeared to be smooth & level without any ridges.

A friend of mine had installed a new Zoom Borg & Beck design clutch in his car, drove it about 60 miles then tore the engine down. I purchased the unit from him. Now things are worse! It seems to slip worse and now I get chatter from it when I let the clutch out. I was later informed that this is a Kevlar coated disc and you have to drive this thing a couple hundred miles in order to break this thing in. Sorry but I'm from the old school and something doesn't seem right.

Can anyone shed some light or suggestions on this?

BTW, I've checked the TO bearing to make sure it's not hanging up on the spline cover, have adjusted the pedal to have about 1-2 inches of play before engaging and finally the car shifts just fine as long as you are driving it normal.
 
Is the over center sponge still in over the pedal?
 
^^^ What he said, most CenterForce clutch/pressure plate setups, recommend removing the over-center spring.
 
The spring over the clutch pedal was removed when the Centerforce was in, and put back on when the Zoom was put back in.. Complete rebuilt and balanced 340, plenty of power, just not getting to the rear tires.
 
A340 said:
But what I noticed most was, when half way power shifting the car did not have a significate power bang to it. It just eased it's way into gear. No way could you chirp the tires or bang the dash.
Click to expand...

Splain 1/2 way power shifting?
 
Is the pressure plate clean and dry? no oil on it or on friction disc ? Pilot bushing good? Did you check alignment?

It could be numerous reasons.
 
May need to go to 10.95 PP and disc. I run McLeod. Sounds like it is slipping to me, try power shift in top gear, watch tach. Call your clutch co and tell them what you have, and get their recommendation.
 
I run a 340 and 410 stroker,I used the same 10.5 center force dual friction clutch with both motors, works bitchin....frys the tires and rips'em loose every shift.

I doubt you have too much power.
I question the fork rod adjustment, and was the flywheel surfaced?

I do know that stock replace style NAPA clutches do not keep up with a hot 340, they do slip some....I wonder if the linkage was biff'd with the center force, then corrected with the zoom which just might not have the holding force of the center force.

But....was it a dual friction center force or ?
 
I also read that article and was wondering to its merit.
 
don't know about that, they say it's the later pedal setup....then they go on to say it's the rod length.

so is it the rod or the pedal??

neither, lengthen the fork adjustment rod.lol

And really, if you wanted to change the ratio a lil, you could shorten the 'pedal side' lever on the z bar itself, then you would need a lil longer rod.

I've done lil things like using e body shift tabs for my 1-2 gear, shorter travel between 1st and 2nd, very quick shifts.
 
I did a hyd clutch set up in mine. It is a 340 as well. Once I got it adjusted right it was tight as could be. I dont know how the linage set up is since i never did it but if you could make it so it moves a little more then maybe that will fix it. I once had a ca**ro with the same type of problem. We just lengthened the rod so the fork moved more then it was fine.
Are you sure you have the right Zbar and rod and stuff? Also the pivot on the inside of the bell as well as the fork. The big block fork is shorter so it would mean less travel measure that stuff to make sure it is right
 
Mmmm, had some z-bar linkage problems. Sounds like a cobbled set-up. I'd make sure you have the correct parts installed. I did the swap 2 years ago w/the correct parts and it works for me even w/a mild 360
 
Hey Guys, Thanks for all the replies. Called Zoom today, sent pictures of the Zoom set up. Tech guy tells me Kevlar disc is fine but P.Plate is bad. Advised me to call American Powertrain to get a better P.plate?? (Nothing like a Zoom guy sending business down the road!) Appartently he knows at this point his P.Plate is inferior. So I call and E-mail pics to Amer. Powertrain. Tech guy tells me the kevlar clutch is glazed and ruined but the P.Plate is fine! Think I need another opinion at this point!

SO I call Brewers Performance here in Ohio. If you've been to the Mopar Nationals you've probably ran across Wayne and his crew, great bunch of guys. Send pics to Wayne. First question he asks about the Centerforce, was the over center spring removed. When I got the car it was not, but I removed it within a couple days of getting the car. He tells me the clutch was probably ruined before I got the spring removed. Looks at the Zoom setup and states Kevlar disc is also glazed and ruined because the Zoom pressure plate is not strong enough or has enough pressure to properly handle the Kevlar disc. So I purchased the McLeod Clutch, P-Plate & T.O. bearing from him. It has the Organic/Ceramic coating and Wayne states he has sold many of these and has never had a problem. So, at this point, I will check the pivot arm and ball inside the bell housing since all the other Z-bar components were replaced, turn the flywheel once again, and hope for the best!

I had already read the article and I have the proper long Z-bar. No oil on the clutch, new pilot bearing in the crank, everything looks straight.
 
Good luck to you 340. I have contacted Wayne and the boys @ Brewers and got nothing but the best of service. You're on the right track.
 
Love the Brewer's crew myself. That was going to be my next suggestion, being that I saw you were from Ohio.

All the best!
Giles
 
A340 said:
Hey Guys, Thanks for all the replies. Called Zoom today, sent pictures of the Zoom set up. Tech guy tells me Kevlar disc is fine but P.Plate is bad. Advised me to call American Powertrain to get a better P.plate?? (Nothing like a Zoom guy sending business down the road!) Appartently he knows at this point his P.Plate is inferior. So I call and E-mail pics to Amer. Powertrain. Tech guy tells me the kevlar clutch is glazed and ruined but the P.Plate is fine! Think I need another opinion at this point!

SO I call Brewers Performance here in Ohio. If you've been to the Mopar Nationals you've probably ran across Wayne and his crew, great bunch of guys. Send pics to Wayne. First question he asks about the Centerforce, was the over center spring removed. When I got the car it was not, but I removed it within a couple days of getting the car. He tells me the clutch was probably ruined before I got the spring removed. Looks at the Zoom setup and states Kevlar disc is also glazed and ruined because the Zoom pressure plate is not strong enough or has enough pressure to properly handle the Kevlar disc. So I purchased the McLeod Clutch, P-Plate & T.O. bearing from him. It has the Organic/Ceramic coating and Wayne states he has sold many of these and has never had a problem. So, at this point, I will check the pivot arm and ball inside the bell housing since all the other Z-bar components were replaced, turn the flywheel once again, and hope for the best!

I had already read the article and I have the proper long Z-bar. No oil on the clutch, new pilot bearing in the crank, everything looks straight.
Click to expand...



I don't buy that.
I have the over center spring in mine, have for years and I have never had a problem.

On the pivot bracket, do you have a lakewood bell?
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1327707#post1327707
 
Wild & Crazy: No. I have the stock Aluminum bellhousing. Will see if I can get a part number off the pivot fork or measure it and check with Brewers. Appreciate all the suggestions.
I can understand the Over the spring because when I got the car, the pedal was not coming all the way back up like it should have, therefore the bearing was probably riding against the presssure plate maybe not letting the clutch be fully released and dragging against the pressure plate. Not sure just guessing. At least that was the road Wayne Brewer was going down when he explained it to me.
 
A340 said:
Wild & Crazy: No. I have the stock Aluminum bellhousing. Will see if I can get a part number off the pivot fork or measure it and check with Brewers. Appreciate all the suggestions.
I can understand the Over the spring because when I got the car, the pedal was not coming all the way back up like it should have, therefore the bearing was probably riding against the presssure plate maybe not letting the clutch be fully released and dragging against the pressure plate. Not sure just guessing. At least that was the road Wayne Brewer was going down when he explained it to me.
Click to expand...

You need adjust the fork rod [I had to lengthen mine] so that you have about an inch-2 inches of pedal movement before engagement, that way the fork is pushed back when clutch is let out to the point that the overcenter can pull it back up.

I run no fork return spring and have the overcenter spring still in place, no issue.
Something is not right with your linkage/adjustments.
 
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