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If you press on the small diameter internal part of the main shaft the cam and advance assembly should come off.

That is not a reluctor. It is the cam to open and close the points. It does not come off separately.

They have The "P" part numbers on them.

I run a 22 inch 3 row copper core and never had a cooling problem. Big or small block. Does it get hot cruising on the highway or idling in town?

A points distributor fixed the problem on both cars. I assume HEI is better now. There were all kinds of HP replacements for the HEI components back in the day. I don't have to work on Chevrolets anymore. I never had a problem with any Chrysler ignition. I have a chrome box in my 66, it is...

Oh yes they did. I don't read or watch anything. I was there doing stuff as it came out. Had a guy insist on putting a used HEI ignition in a 1970 LT 1 engine, see post #24, and it definitely stopped pulling at 4,500 rpm. Same for a Corvette 327. A points distributor fixed both. Chevy junk...

And they stopped revving at 4,500 rpm.

Mallory had one similar, one coil, one condenser, 2 points different cylinders for each set of points. Nice distributors, very cool caps, luckily I was real good at setting points.

My 71 340 Duster 4 speed had a dual point Prestolite distributor from the factory. Your car has obviously been modified.

Back in the 80's or 90's I drank the MS "Racer" Kool-Aid. Pulled my chrome box and plugged in an MSD box. Ran it for a few years, then started having weak ignition problems. Swapped the chrome box back in and problems solved. Trashed the MSD and been running that same old chrome box, even...

I think I have one on the 66 Formula S. I'll check to see if I can read any numbers.

I have one for the 66 Barracuda, just waiting to install with recommended coil.

The cast iron distributors also seem to last forever and don't wear the shafts and bushings as much.

I think someone makes new "guts". I'll see if I can find it.

Forever in my experience.

MoparMike1974 replaces the pins and the boards will be better than new. I know it is a long way to ship from OZ.

Not true, 72 would have factory electronic ignition.

Best to get a 72 or 73 340 distributor used or get a rebuilt one from halifaxhops for either engine. it is the brain of your engine, don't cheap out.

He would know. I can't remember when tan caps came in, but I'm pretty sure early to mid sixties were black. Especially on Prestolite distributors, It would be interested to "know".

I have always left everything inside the cap dry. Never had a problem, I don't think I will do that myself.

There you go. Original caps were black without a vent. Contacts were brass, I'll second using dielectric grease on the plug wire sockets, not sure I'd use it anywhere else.

It is the standard Prestolite cap with spring loaded center conductor and flat conductor rotor. Same as a 68-71 340 4 speed.

I use them on every small block.

How about timing for the 2 sets? I ran the 4 lobe for years.

On a 273, block first set of points, and set the second set of points to .014-.019 gap (dwell should be 27-32 degrees). Block second set of points and unblock first set of points and set the same as the second set before. Then unblock both sets of points and the dwell should be 37-42 degrees...

I'll look up 273 specs.

I would look at HP 273 or 340 specs. They are make it, break it specs, so dwell should increase. Assuming a 6 point lobe...

Yes, I figured you would know a good procedure since you have used that potting compound before. I have a chrome box and some voltage regulators that are loosing the original potting compound. Thank you!

How do you prep your parts before potting?

Yes, and you definitely had to set it up with a dwell tach. Otherwise 4 cylinders were not timed to the other 4. But it also had an adjustable curve.