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Loose nut behind the wheel

Sweet. I like the red stripe on the green body

Glad you got it all settled up!

Well...while everyone is beggin for stuff for 50 bucks, I could sure use a good pair of front fenders:mrgreen:

Like I said before. They don't WANT to keep his car. If they got a mechanic's lein against it and tried to sell it, all they will get is about $1000. The thing to do is let them take it, try to sell it, and have a ringer buy it back.

One last suggestion. IF there is a possibility you won't be painting the car, then leave it in bare metal so the painter can work it up using matched primer and paint. My guy won't guaranty his work if someone brings him a car in primer....for probably the reason you're doing yours a second...

We chatted about this the other night, and I know I'm not just around the corner, but here is another example of my guy's paint work. I had the ralley hood done more than a year after the rest of the car, and B5 isn't that easy to match.

black, white, blue, green, yellow floral (mod top), red. I've got a 69 Plymouth paint and trim code book. I'll have a look to see what else. I'm thinking D6X is black buckets

For a short time I had an E body pistol grip in the Sublime 70 340 duster I had. It hit the dash in 1 and 3, and (even with ape arms) I had to lean a bit forward to grab it. I've heard the 71 up B body pistol grip is a better choice for an A body. But I didn't (and still don't) have one to try out

Cool

Bad thing is you couldn't trust this guy to finish the car no matter what. He could make the paint fall off of it if he wanted to. Course you could always take the "place index finger along side of nose then shove to one side" approach and run a bulldozer through his shop......naturally you...

I guess I've just been lucky. When I had the Challenger done, I told him what I wanted done, and how I wanted certain things done. He did what I asked, and was $27.00 off of his original estimate. I had taken the car to him the end of October. Not much was done the end of November or December...

I think there's a difference between a proper restoration and a balls-out O.E. Certified type of resto. My Challenger was a very correct car, but it wasn't something I did for the O.E. judging at the Nats. IF I had done that level of resto, I wouldn't have been able to enjoy the car. So while...

I thought you were going to quote "It ain't easy being cheesie"

It's easy to make a Hemi or a Six Pack run slow. Back in the late 80's when I had my 383 Super Bee and was only running about 13.70's with it, I was walking down the staging lanes and came upon a friend in his Six Pack car. Had "14.30" on the window. I said, "14.30?!? You need to work on this...

Very cool! When I first got my Sedan, I considered the new Go ManGo factory Mopar color. Then I talked to a friend who painted a Cuda that color, and found out that paint is really expensive.

The front clip is an easy change. And (I'm betting) like you I don't like those huge tail lights. But changing the tail panel is a (relatively) permanent modification, and "I" wouldn't do it. But it isn't my car, so what I think really doesn't matter much.

I think if you did this same survey on the A-12 or Wing Car site you would get a completely different outcome. Those are cars that, when restored to stock condition, will bring six figures. A bodies don't do that. As cool as they are, they won't command those numbers (except the Hurst Hemi...

I don't think those were the good mushrooms you ate:happy10:

I disagree. I guess you've seen the pics of my (ex) Challenger. It was hard core restored with the bottom done and all that. I did the indoor show thing with it (it won thank you) and did lots of cruises. I also took it up to the Pure Stock Muscle Car Drag Race (had it certified pure stock) and...

OK.Tell us which headers you have, and if the fiber gasket solved the leak problem

The rusty brackets are a nice touch:-D

Way To Go:cheers:

If you use a gun, use an HVLP. It will make a lot less mess

Thanks for that info:thumbup:

Looking good! You said those are headers? Is that #3 cylinder tube routed over the # 5 & #7 plugs and drops behind the #7 tube? Any issues with plug wire routing or starter wiring? What is your overall opinion of them?

Soooo... did your bud say anything after trashing your valve cover?

Do you have room for one of those body rocker things? It attaches where the wheels go (to the suspension) then you can "rock" the car up on one side just a thought

lol

Yes, there is supposed to be a bracket that 1) bolts the bast to the carb, and 2) bolts the lid to the base I forgot. If you need a pic of what this looks like, let me know