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mine reads 250* on the gauge @ 190* engine temp with a 175* thermostat. Stock gauges are about as accurate as waving your hand over it and guessing

i prefer to solder but thats not the questions. American auto wire sells such tool, cheap ones dont work that well

that 3 prong part is a VR, or voltage limiter.

i can get it done for ya. just gonna need what you want for a initial timing, total mechanical, rpm all in. Also if you want your vacuum advance messed with you may need a new pod. Just let me know

what was the ohm on the new coil

i would try 16-34 and see if it likes that, may want more initial timing

i had a pair of polk 6x9's and RF tech P1 10's in my 68 dart. MY next setup is going to be a pair of T1 12's with 4 6x9's and some other goodies

if its a column shift push the shifter up while in park and see if its just out of adjustment. my 73 needs the handle to be lifted about 1/16" before it thinks it in park

and illegal in some states to have hidden compartments lol

I run all lead to lol. I think were having a tone issue as im asking a question, not making a statement. im wondering why this seems to be a hitch as they never to have an issue

Right that is the way Optima wants you to charge it, excuse me all AGM battery's BUT my point being they sell them for a direct replacement for hundreds if not thousands uses where a lead/acid lived forever. that AGM battery lives just fine for its 7 years or whatever its rated for. So what...

right, but then they do fine in cars with the same style charging system so maybe were being over critical?

Autozone sells a gel cell in their line thats like 100 bucks, same as the optima, same plant in Mexico, just a different wrapper. P.S. optima's are no longer made here and no longer have the good warranty.

if the under dash stuff is fine just replace the engine compartment harness... Use an M&H harness ONLY

get the tank below a true half a tank (less = less mess) then put the sender in a vise gently! i start with the arm down, hook the ohm meter to the stud and body of the sender. it should read close to 73 or 10, i never remember what ohm is full/empty. there will be a little metal ear you bend...

oh I know! trying to reuse those damn things in a pinch is no fun! yea we have a ratcheting tool to, it crimps, cuts and strips, just not all at the same time lol

i agree if you are a very bad at it and melt solder 1/2" into the wire then yea, but dont do any of the rest either lol... i solder those connectors, its not hard. kiss of solder and shrink tube and your good to go

the best crimping tool is a soldering gun...

M&H make complete harnesses with all new connectors first off... second good job! wiring isnt an easy task even with years of experience...

This was something that pissed me off about the Painless... They expected you to use a gm alternator and GM column. Only because i have the 68 dart Color diagram from the ebay guy (spacing the name) i had to make my own diagram to mate the GM diagram into a mopar harness... BS im sure i'll...

electric choke on the heater/AC fuse... WTF...

i have installed the painless kit in a 46 dodge truck, does the kit work, yes. Does it make alot of sense? no... there is no master wiring diagram as alot of the wiring labels dont make any sense. for me it would just be easier to make my own harness using a ENOS "Black Box", they also can make...

multiple keys... but yes a locksmith can set you up in no time, and make a couple extra's!

not one person asked if his horn works... looks like the horn relay... and A goes to C

take a pic of the correct canister and what is on it. AND tell us the number on the arm, 8-11.5 usually.

is the canister different than a regular slant/small block distributor (maybe even BB)?

as long as you have the proper gauge wire for the amps and if your using any connectors that they can handle those amps. Normally on a stock harness you run into stock wire gauge, bulk head connector, and amp meter not being able to handle even the HO stock ones... 67 will jump in and add...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=187437

could be getting to much fuel... stuck float, mis-adjusted float, and other issues

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