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Rock Auto has Moog parts but Ive read that they arent the quality they use to be.

Who has the highest quality, stock replacement parts available now ? Im tempted to order it all from Rock Auto but some times the cheap prices scare me.

wasnt CAP big issue bad welds ? I would think QA1 wouldnt have that issue.

I believe Hemi and Six pack cars have the left and right spring packs..

I believe they are all left and right specific and you can tell by the part number on the spring. even number goes on one side, odd goes on the other. Can anyone confirm that ?

Sorry, Crappy picture.

Heres trim black on my column and dash.

Krylon has a textured black if yours has more texture to it.

Heres the thread I was talking about http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=246167&highlight=poly+bushings

Its a common issue with poly LCA bushings. There was a thread not to long ago with lots of good info on it. I would replace the LCA with rubber if it were me though.

get rid of the slant 6 t-bars.

way to much side wall. You want a short sidewall for handling

what does the car run ? whats the weight ? Converter ? Gearing? Shift RPM ? RPM across the line ? If its hooking hard messing with the suspension isnt going to gain you anything. No spin is no spin. If you want harder launches you need to make more power.

Either buy a rebuild kit or replace it with a U joint.

I usually use rubber. I didnt care for the fit of any of the poly dust boots, Had issues with poly lower control arm bushings so the only ploy bushings I ended up using were the upper control arms and the Strut rod bushings

They dont need them but thats what they sell to match them. They were originally designed to work with stock springs.

Do you want it to handle good on the street or hook at the track ? Most of the parts you have listed will make it handle better of the street but its not going to hook as well at the track. Its going to make the suspension stiff. On the track you want a looser front suspension to transfer...

I had the same issue when I tried them. Stock rubber ones solved the problem.

http://www.springsnthings.com/

should be fine, Its the steering shaft you need to worry about. Pull it out and make sure the shear pin is OK. Also you dint need the entire column to convert to floor shift. You only need the collar up top. It should swap right to your original column.

the flaming river piece is nice if you dont care about it not looking stock. its not cheap but worth it.

How soon do you need it ? Not sure when I can get to the P.O.

Yup, my lines are fine and you dont need the u-joint with the adapter with the stock box. But Im also building mpre of a stock cruiser then a corner carver. But if you want to add those then you need to add the price of new lines and shipping to the borgeson box too

$750 for the box and $130 for the adapter. Way to much for me.

Joe hit the nail on the head. Start with a good rebuild and then improve from there. You wont have any road feel with the stock power steering box.

My guess is its for the earlier small ball joint and the B body one is the one you will need. Large A is the same as B and E I believe.

you can swap the color from a floor shift on to your column

If I remember right you drill a hole through the shaft and put a roll pin through the 2 pieces.

you would have to get them custom made. I dont know of anyone doing 14" steel wheels in different back spacings. Maybe swapping in a B body rear to widen the track will work.

Thats normal. You can try less backspacing in the back and more in the front.