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Sounds like a combination of issues, The grinding/vibration at an idle is probably the throwout bearing, or possibly the front bearing, both can cause that. The popping out of third can be synchronizes, shifter linkage adjustment, bad bearing, or bad spot on a gear. The front bearing is...

Yes, they're the same. There is no special console or shifter parts for for either tranny.

That's *****!!!

First off, if you have to move the perches and reweld them it is not a "direct" bolt in. The drive shaft will have to be cut no matter what, if you are going from a 7 1/4" to an 8 3/4", 8 1/4" or a 9" Ford, all four of them take a different length drive shaft. The 57-59 Ford rear is a "direct"...

It's the only rear that is a direct bolt in other than a Mopar A-body rear. The only mod needed is the drive shaft which also needs to be shortened if your going from a 7 1/4 to an 8 3/4 or 8 1/4. They also sell a Ford to Mopar u-joint. The Maverick/Comet rear is a little wider but can be used...

The only thing other than an 8 3/4 or an 8 1/4 rear end out of an A-body that will bolt up would be a 9" out of a 57-59 Ford, it's a bolt in other than the drive shaft will need to be shortened. Some will tell you to use a B-body rear but that is the hack way of doing it, it also puts the leaf...

3700 pounds? what kind of car? That is getting up there for a 904 if you have any power, especially if you ad a couple hundred pounds of stereo, a passenger and your self to that 3700. The way you drive also has a lot to do with the longevity of the tranny.

I agree with above comments on using the 904, the 727 use to be the way to go but it's been proven the 904 is more than sufficient and takes less power from the engine. If you were running a heavier B-body or a truck then I'd go with the 727 but the extra strength isn't needed with an A-body...

Not all 3spd's have the smaller yoke, I have a 3spd out of a 74 Duster and it takes the 727 yoke. I thought the smaller (904) yoke was only on the older 3spd's? Just drop the driveshaft and see what yoke you have before buying the parts you need. I would stick with an F or A body tranny, just...

I would spend the money on some taller tires first, that would help out quite a bit and be cheaper than the gears, you also need them before you decide on what gears you will need anyway. You could get a set of stock 15 x 7 steelies "cheap" if you don't have the wheels. There are a lot of...

First off, don't weld your spiders, welded spiders and spools just don't work on the street. What size tire do you have? What RPM does your engine idol at? 3:23 sounds too high for your engine. anything under 4:11 may cause shaking and lurching at low speeds with your cam and a 4spd, you could...

Just ask for all the measurements before you buy a rearend. I have noticed a few guys pushing the early B-Body rears, they may work but they are far from a bolt in, and they look like **** because they are just too wide for an A-Body. You also have to run such a ridiculous offset wheel that...

I know there are a few differences between years, but all 63-76 A-Body rears will interchange, the exception being the drive shaft length will be different between the 7 1/4, 8 1/4 & 8 3/4. There are also a few Fords that interchange with the 63-76 A-Bodies without modification.

Maybe it's the 742 case you can't get anything for, I know one of them are impossible to get parts for.

I don't even think you can buy any parts or gears for the 741 case.

I agree with above, if you can't do it yourself then leave it alone. I've done it several times and it is an easy job if you can work on cars but it is the type of job that a shop will break it off in your back side. You also need to make sure your crank is drilled for the pilot brg and input...

This is correct, The 727 and a-833 share the same yoke but not the drive shaft. The 904 and a-833 share the same drive shaft but not the yoke. There are a few different size u-joints and most 904's have the smaller u-joint but is fine for mild builds, those with bigger horsepower will or...

A 360 is a good choice, the mounts are the same on the 727 but the driveshaft will need to be shortened. If you get one out of a truck, the truck will have a rear sump pan so you will need to get a different oil pan and pick up tube.

If you have both rears sitting there, just measure the difference between them. Center of axle to center of U-joint.

Not all 9" rears have the hump on the back, some are smooth and looks like an 8 3/4 The simplest way to tell a 9" from other rears is the bottom nut that holds the third member in on a 9" can not be gotten with a socket and ratchet, only a wrench.

I think it really depends on how your engine is built and what size tire you have. 3:91's aren't enough for my car but for some 3:55's are still way to steep. 3:91's will be pushing it for hwy use though unless you have tall tires.

I don't doubt they exist, I just haven't seen one and would like to. I've parted out dozens of 70's-80's trucks and vans and never came across one.

That looks like a 4x4 tranny

I'd like to see a photo of one. The one in my van had a 904 pan and the tranny shop said it was a heavy 904

Those are a heavy 904, they started using them in the early 80's vans and trucks with 318's I parted an 84 with one and my 86 van had one.

I have three of them in storage, one out of a truck and the other two out of vans and they have the two bolt mounting for the console bracket. I wonder what years they had a different tail shaft? Not all of the truck/van tranny's had this, I think they started doing it in the 80's for only a...

I would recommend a shift kit first also. most shift kits you buy tells you to adjust this pressure when installing it and they tell you how many turns to make. My uncle worked in a trans shop for a while and my old auto mechanics teacher showed us this trick, he is a Mopar guy. That is where I...

There is an adjustment inside the tranny to increase the pressure without having throttle travel interference. It has been a long time since I was in an automatic tranny but I believe there is an allen bolt adjuster below the servo.

This cannot be good. With a properly fit drive shaft, you only have an inch of play between the yoke and the tranny and if you try and use one that is too long you can destroy berrings in the tranny and the rear end. If you run one that is too short then you run the risk of destroying the...

As long as everything worked out in the end, it is all good. I think some of these bigger companies loose sight of the customer as they become bigger. I've had more problems with these companies over the last 25 years than you would think. I am making a space on my trailer once I repaint it...