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The strut rod bushing must provide axial location through a non-moment connection. That is, the strut rod can't move forward or backwards, but must be able to pivot up and down freely. I suspect you won't be happy with Delrin in this application. Delrin is stiff and has low elasticity. The...

Inverse sine of the half the toe (opposite side) over the wheel diameter (hypotenuse). So assume we want 1/8" total toe, that's 1/16" or .0625 per side. And assuming a 26" tire, Inv SIN .0625/26.00 =.138 degrees per side. As for being the same side to side, in an ideal world yes, but they're...

So if you turn the adjustment screw and the ride height stays the same, the threads may be stripped in the LCA. Of course we know you are only turning that screw with the vehicle raised, supported by the frame and the wheels hanging in the air. But maybe somebody before you tried to change the...

I have never seen .830 bars on a car, even an early A. Some .850, but mostly .870 for cars with PS and AC. I parted a couple loaded slant cars from 74-75 and both had .870 bars. I suspect as the car weight exploded over the years the smaller bars went away. Unless you primarily use the car...

So there's two ways to do this. The first and most common is a cold re-camber. This is where the spring pack is bent into the desired shape. If the bushings, leaf liners, etc aren't replaced you'll just have worn out springs bent to ride higher. The better way involves disassembling the...

Super Stock rear springs? How high is the rear compared to the front? Every degree of nose down "rake" is a degree of caster lost. Not saying you should go "Carolina squat" or anything silly. But SS springs typically have a lot of loaded camber (arch) and raise the rear

I have a 10+ year old Hobart 187 which is their first step into 220v machines and couldn't be more happy. Hobart and miller are the same company (along with Smith's gas torches) and they generally don't put their names on junk. The Miller is going to have a few more bells and whistles in each...

That was the F Body.

Leaf springs are made from 5160 steel. Beyond that you get what you pay for. Having a set of existing springs re-arched is another case of getting what you pay for. A properly re-cambered leaf spring should give the same service life as it did originally. It's not unreasonable to spend the...

Any time you insert a rod into a socket, it's easier with lube.

The boxes SHOULD interchange. Later boxes had two changes. The splines on the pittman arm changed. That is, later boxes had a larger spline. And, the bolts fixing the box to the K-member were larger on later or bigger cars. If the box you have now bolts in, you're fine. 67 to 64 shouldn't...

I suspect these are made in small batches to fill standing orders and place some inventory on the shelf for future sales. Once they have enough orders to pay for the run they'll have them made. Keep in mind these are small companies making low volume products. Maybe a dozen or so sets will...

Actually, I was thinking the same thing, those welds don't look bad compared to the factory welds at the time. Hit the big goobers with a grinder, shoot some undercoat on them and 90% of the world will think it's original.

Actually they take a lot of stress OFF the shock tower. That load is carried back to the firewall with what ends up being a box beam.

So you want the center link to be parallel to the ground in the greater scheme of things.

Chose the bolt-in bars you want and then WELD THEM IN!!! No, really, best suggestion I can think of.

There are a couple photos of the pre-cut kits installed: Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering I would suspect the improvement in an early A would be noticeable. Up there with subframe connectors and torsion boxes.

Spacer collar

Glass bead blasting should be just fine. Remember that the base metal won't be affected at all until the paint is gone. So stop blasting once you are through the paint. Mopar used pretty tough stuff (5160?) for torsion bars. Could you work harden the surface through media blasting? perhaps...

The engineers at Chrysler spent a lot of time designing the springs to be almost flat. Makes for better handling. Check factory service manual for loaded camber dimension, usually around 1/2"

Every 318 AC car I've ever come across had .870 bars.

If you pull the boot, there's usually enough room to get a pipe wrench onto the ball joint from the underside of the arm. Once you break it loose a large crescent wrench can spin it out.

Heim joints are probably just fine on a car that will see only a few thousand road miles a year and get regular maintenance (although I'll never put them on a Jeep again). Keep them clean and lubricated and you'll be fine. Will they last 150K miles? Doubtful, but do they need to? The issue...

The factory bars can be made adjustable. Step 1: Cut in half. Step 2: Thread ends. Step 3: Add threaded sleeve and jam nuts.

Wore out Bilsteins?!? If you want a high pressure monotube shock with more more aggressive valving, try KYB's.

They are "handed" that is specific left and right bars, but there is no front or back. Or not originally anyhow. Like any spring they will take a set and change shape over time (the spring rate will remain the same). It could be possible that the bar in question has changed a little but there...

Turning the wheels with the vehicle sitting still is never a good idea. You just notice it more with manual steering. The forces felt by the steering linkage is the same. Front ends (and tires) last longer if you let the vehicle creep a little as you turn.

60-62 Chevy trucks, VW T1, T2, and T3 Transporters/busses (or any air cooled VW)

The u-joint is just as collapsible as he pot coupling. Which is to say it isn't. The collapsability in the later columns came from the fact that the lower section slides into the upper section as you found out. Also the special square plastic washers holding the column to the dash allow it to...

You're wrong.