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Sorry for the jack but I get a kick out of your sig! Can you imagine what was going through that stupid cats mind after it jumped??!! No worrywart here! We use them for target practice around here lol... We have nearly 50 ferrell cats that just cause havoc on my land and under my house...

LoL! I have been an audiophile for many years too! I have several trophies for DB drags here in Houston back when they were doing it at Delmar stadium. Had 4 12's in a 84 Dodge Daytona with 4 mids and 4 tweets that were all Kicker comps. All powered by 4 "American made" Linear amps pushing 6000...

Kids!!!! The sweet sound of dual exhaust and a nice cam is music to my ears!!! Or the "Whistle" of my Turbo LoL!

No problem!

Bet the fuseable link is blown/burned through inside the insulation. Its hard to tell by just looking at it. You will need a sharp test light and probe it about 6 inches from the solenoid.

The chrome bezel actually twists on like a 1/4 turn. Its been a while since I removed mine so I can't remember which way to twist it to remove it.

Yep, the fuseable link leads to the back off the fuseblock. There it has a female blade type terminal that plugs into a copper/brass male blade terminal. This terminal leads to all of the fuse locations. I would check for power there after you check the fuseable link.

Also there is a ground strap that runs to the firewall or the wiper motor stud from the back of the engine block or head. Make sure it is there and the negative battery lead is bolted to the engine block or head.

Here is a diagram for a 72 for reference, http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartA.JPG Upper lefthand corner behind the headlight you will see "Fuseable Link". Shows to be red from the starter soleniod.

It is in the middle rectangular plug that plugs in at the firewall. I was trying to find a pic but no luck.

My Cuda has a heavy gauge wire with a yellow plastic tab molded onto it. That is a fuseable link for the power into the distribution block going into the firewall.

Fuseable link in the distribution block?

Highly intelligent individual here! O' yeah, they did reinvent the wheel!!

I used the Coil wire from the Ballast resistor like Kid said for the "Switched" power lead. I also run the main(Thick) power lead to the battery side stud on the solenoid and fused it with a 30 amp fuse and fuse holder at the stud. Once inside the car I added a 30 amp circuit breaker about 5...

Regular ol' 1157 amber bulbs is what I used. 2 fer $5.49, still to damn high!!

Like Rocky said, you have to remove the park light assembly from the grill. It is double nuted. One nut holds them to the grill and the other holds the fixture in the chrome bezel. I don't remember there being a phillips screw though?? Both nuts were 9/32" iirc. Careful not to tear the gasket...

Pertronix comes with its own rotor. The magnetic ring that slides over the shaft is about the thickness you describe! If you use a different one you need to file the bottom of the rotor enough to clear. I had to file a small amount off the top of the shaft too. At least that is what I did. No...

Mine did this with the original switch. Bought a replacement and it appeared physically the same and it did the same thing as the new one. Both in hand I noticed they were the same but two of the contacts were labeled different. Check the backside of the switches and confirm that all contact...

You Rock! Thanks. I will click your "Thanks" button too!:thumbup:

I have looked everywhere for a diagram for the back of the fusebox in a 1968 Barracuda. Anyone got one? Thanks!

I don't know how Plymouth got away with the small red lenses in the 1968 Barracuda taillight. I have been scared of these dim taillights cruising out the interstate at night. Yeah, I realize the opaque/white outer "Backup" lense is somewhat lit by the inner bulb inside the red filter. Quite...

I like the fact they can be set for low or high signals for warning flashes on each individual gauge. Also with the additional interface they can Data Log too.

I had a set in my Prostreet Ram. Nice! Sorry for the bad pic but here they are,

Wow! Was watching the Nascar Shoot Out this past weekend and while under caution there was a in-car shot. I noticed the gauges were really nice and 1 or 2 were flashing red then they went back to original color. I looked around for them and this is what I found, Auto Meter Elite Series...

The switch is actually grounded by the switch housing when it is installed into the cast cluster housing. Another words, internally grounded. What is your new custom dash made of?

I should have been more detailed. The diagram is from google. I should have Changed the "Fan" circuit to "Accessory" needing power in MS Paint... Yes I agree with your Hi/Lo circuits needing two relays but that should have been a given. One curcuit per relay. All this can be wired from the Hi/Lo...

Double check the contacts at the coil. May be broke internally.

Ahhh! You don't need no stinkn' kit! Relays are cheap at the parts house and easy to wire up. Do it yourself and save a few bucks. Here is a diagram of how to wire a 5 pin relay below,

Looks like rust on the contact area, check those wiper seals!!!!!!

Headlight switch in the dash and/or Dimmer switch on the floor Replace both, they are cheap!