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Related to my post #7 above. If you notice the early mopar alternators were rated at 39 amps, then as electrical loads became greater as the cars got newer, the alternator ratings got larger. Some vehicles got alternators rated at over 100 amps, but mostly the regulators stayed the same (granted...

The regulator does not control the amps, it controls the alt voltage output. The larger the difference between the alt voltage and the battery voltage, and the amount of load the greater the amp flow (within the design amps of the alt). If you notice the alternator is rated in amps output, but...

Thanks for the heads up.

Think I have this figured out. The "keep alive" circuit will be powered by this aux battery (don't need this large but is the smallest SLA i can find) https://batterysharks.com/12-volt-5-5-a ... ttery.html The positive of this battery will be connected to the vehicle battery through a 1N5404...

The phone batteries sounds like what I want to do. I don't know the minimum voltage requirement for the computer, but the trouble shooting page lists a possible problem if the voltage to the unit drops below 5 volts during engine cranking. I would assume 10 volts would be ok as an emergency...

That's basically what I had in mind. However I would like it to be "hard wired" , and I think if using a diode The battery would stay charged, but not discharge if the main battery had a problem. Also I was thinking even if the 9 volt battery was enough voltage for the computer, I would be...

Thanks, but I do have a couple of those type batteries. They are much bigger than I need for this application. I'm looking for something I might be able to mount behind the dash. Doesn't need a lot of AH capacity. It would just be to keep the memory alive, so I don't need to recalibrate the...

Working on my truck. I'm planning on installing an old school "driving" computer. Without going into a lot of detail about the unit, I need some help. In wiring up the unit, I need constant batt power, and ign switched battery power. The constant power is for "keep alive" memory. I would like to...

Didn't Chrysler change part numbers on some items, just because of a vender change?

And what is the difference between the parts, except for the part number?

I have been using the 90 amp Denso alternator and transpo regulator for many many years. Set the regulator for 13.8-13.9 volts. Never had any issues/failures. Even my race car, and I use a micro switch on the throttle to open the field circuit at WOT. Several of my cars are the 64-66 "A" bodies...

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=vertex%20magneto&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-34002-13078-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=102&keyword=vertex%20magneto&crlp=_&MT_ID=&geo_id=&rlsatarget=kwd-77172071130080:loc-190&adpos=&device=c&mktype=&loc=72790&poi=&abcId=&cmpgn=329530295&sitelnk=&adgroupid=1234751667959385...

If the battery is low, and the idle is low, it is possible for the full load of the alternator to stall the engine, with nothing being wrong. If I full field the alternator on my car, with a low battery, the rpm will drop by about 200 rpm. But it is also possible he shorted the ign circuit when...

How did you bypass the regulator?

I can't be sure, but it looks like the terminal on the left is not insulated (it should be). Try swapping the wire that is on the right terminal to the left terminal. Still connected to ground. Then connect the wire from the harness to the right terminal. Normally it should not make any...

Couple of questions. 1) what vehicle 2) What style voltage regulator (sort of square with a triangular plug with 2 wires?) or ( rectangular with a spade connector on one end, and a screw connection on the other end?) 3) What alternator ( does it have a large stud, and one spade terminal, or stud...

Again if my memory is correct. The original regulators for the single field wire alternators were mechanical (had points inside) and were electrically "noisy". The later regulators were electronic and had a much "cleaner" output, and better regulation. The Mopar "race" regulators, and the...

If I remember correctly, that regulator is just a "marine" version, that Chrysler listed as a "P" part and charged more. They did similar for a lot of parts.

@RedFish your inbox is full

Think of those wires like a lamp. It needs both wires to plug into the outlet for the lamp to light.

I try to post what I know, personally, for a fact. If I don't know for sure, I usually say "I think", or "I'm not sure, but", or "I'm not positive". I try to give info, even if it isn't "gospel", as it might give someone a starting place. But they need to confirm it is correct.

The Direct Connection manuals, had many errors. It was just like the internet. People posting/writing what they saw/heard some where else.

Not to nit-pik, but the MSD 7 was available before 1977. I had one on my 65 Valiant Z/sa before 1977. I think it was 1975 or 1976. Had to special order for the 6 cyl, not a 8 cyl. and it did not have the Chrys connector. It had a terminal strip, and was wire with direct wiring. PS: I still have...

The absolute best tester for testing electrical components on our "older" vehicles is the Sunpro CP9080. Very inexpensive, and reliable. Been using mine for over 20 years. It is no longer made, but they show up on e-bay from time to time. Sunpro CP9080 Sensor Tester Plus For Engine Sensors and...

How do you know that is the correct solenoid? It might have been changed and the wrong one used. It is entirely possible the sol on the car is correct for a vehicle with a standard shift. It is not correct for a Canadian build with an automatic.

Is that a Canadian built car? Canadian built early (not sure what years) slants, used a different starter then the American counterparts. Some of the wiring was also different. @slantsixdan hopefully will chime in.

I couldn't find a diagram for the 8780 online. If I remember correctly, I had it wired with a MSD 7 analog box, back in the late '70's, early '80's on my turbo slant. Back then there was no such thing as a "boost timing master".

I have a MSD 8780 "ping control". Looking for the wireing diagram. Not using it right now, and don't remember if it needs a MSD "box".

No gasket, but should have the "O" ring in your picture, and also a larger "O" ring right up at the adjuster plate. Someone probably had a oil leak and didn't have the large "O" ring.

I use the "transpro" ones and like them. I have had too many problems with the "part store" ones, not haveing the correct voltage output. I have seen as much as 2 volt variation between different regulators, on the same vehicle. PS: I have them on my "early A's" with a 90 amp nippondenso alt.