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Does your car have a B-body rear installed (44" vs 43" spring perches on center)?

My reproduction knuckles are the same height as the stock A/E body version. I'm not aware of any problems caused by the taller F/M/J body knuckles, however.

That happens when you run a bearing which was badly scuffed. Some of the rollers probably wore tracks in the mating surfaces due to vibration in transit when the part was new. I think it is called "false brinelling". I have a couple new bearings with deep tracks worn in the outer cup and...

Your pinion angle is 9 degrees negative. I consider 4 degrees negative, maximum.

Unfortunately, I do not. I sell Strange Engineering race brakes which fit 9" knuckles. These are only available in 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern, however. Cass

I make a 11.75" Viper brake kit that fits '73-'76 A-body DRUM knuckles. See below: Viper Caliper Mounting Brackets for Mopar DRUM Knuckles

See below: Mopar Reproduction Disc Brake Knuckles for A/B/E Bodies

My Stage 2 Plus kit includes Wilwood 4-piston calipers and 1" thick 11.75" rotors. See below: Wilwood Mopar 11.75" Front Disc Brake Kit (Stage 2 Plus)

Visually

1972 and older A-body 10" drum brake spindle

Make sure the bend-over tabs on the brake pads are crimped tight against the body of the caliper.

Pinion angle is relative to the transmission center-line, not to the ground. Even though the pinion appears to angle upward, it is actually 2 degrees negative when compared to the transmission.

An 8 degree negative perch angle will bind the U-joints. If you want to duplicate the stock A-body pinion angle, weld the perches at 43" on center. The pinion should angle upward 5 degrees when the perches are level with the ground.

The new mfg dragged their feet, so I'm making the offset hangers in-house again. They are currently in stock.

B dimension on a standard, 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern Mopar axle is 2.5". This does NOT apply to RE-DRILLED 5 x 4" bolt pattern A-body brakes.

If you install 1 side at a time, you don't have to measure anything, as the other leaf spring holds the loose perch in place. Unfortunately, I'm out of stock, as the new mfg is having production problems.

My housing ends are made in batches of 600. Figure about 3 months.

I never sold you Dutchman axles. Years ago, you bought a $295 pair of off-the-shelf YUKON axles I used to carry BEFORE I had my own line of off-the-shelf 8.75" axles. I also sell custom made DUTCHMAN axles because I prefer the quality AND price over Moser.

All '73 and newer A-bodies, regardless of wheel bolt pattern, came with large upper ball joints from the factory.

Of course you can move the spring perches inward 3/4". Because the front hangers can only be moved 1/2" before they hit the frame, the springs will be pulled inward an additional 1/4" toward the rear, however. In other words, no matter what you do, the net result is 1/2" additional tire...

GM, Chrysler and Ford C-CLIP rears use straight ROLLER bearings that ride directly on the axle shaft. Millions of GM, Chrysler and Ford NON C-CLIP (retained wheel bearing type) rears came stock with sealed, single row ball wheel bearings. Single row ball bearings are MORE common in OEM...

MILLIONS of Ford, GM and Chrysler vehicles came stock with single row ball wheel bearings in the rear.

It doesn't matter how far you offset the rear shackles or your spring perches. Because a stock hanger mounts 1/2" away from the frame rail, you can only move the front of the spring 1/2" inward per side. The front section of the spring is the limiting factor.

Installing offset hangers and shackles on an A-body aligns the outside edge of the leaf springs with the factory wheel tubs. This yields an additional 1/2" of tire clearance per side.

The OP is installing Cal-Tracs. I would shoot for 2-3 degrees, as pinion rise is constant. BTW, I make billet steel pinion angle wedges.

Sounds like you are measuring from the driveshaft. This is not the correct method to determine pinion angle. Ideally, you want the pinion to become relatively parallel to the transmission as the pinion wraps up under power. With the vehicle's weight resting on its suspension, make the...

Snap-ring Green bearings maintain a brake gap 0.020" wider than stock. In other words, they pull the axles 0.020" outward per side (away from the thrust block). If your axles squeaked and rubbed, you are running first generation Green bearings with the crimped-on bearing retainer or...

The differential thrust block can be left intact when snap-ring style Green bearings are used with a stock housing, stock axles, and stock brakes.

'72 and earlier 7.25" rearends use retained, sealed ball wheel bearings.

It can be done, but the old bolt pattern must be plug welded and faced.