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That's my opinion as well. The best money you can spend on a slant 6 is the head.

Those sure look nice but I'm not sure how much of a gain that they have. A couple of guys I used to race slant's with gave me mixed reviews on them. One claimed it was a gain of two tenths. The other claimed it was zero gain on his particular engine and said to save my money. The 2 tenth gain...

If I'm not mistaken, didn't the Cox bros used to offer a roller? I believe they are long out of business though.

Thanks for the info. I forgot to mention that I already have a set of the 1.70/1.44's that I have had for years but wasn't sure if anyone was using them with stock bore. Just trying to see what setup I could get by with on the cheap with what I have. I had also heard of some using the 300 Ford...

What oversize valves have members run here? If I was to throw together a cheap fun engine, I was wondering what size valves could be used with a stock bore, if any??

That is really cool that you used a Pontiac engine. If I ever own a Chevy, I will look to other forms of power for it. Probably a Buick, Olds or Pontiac engine or Cadillac 472/500. The 350 is most boring power plant that I can think of. The only thing that I think hasn't been done with...

I run a very old (vintage) Racer Brown cam 520 lift with 254 duration. 108 LSA. 904 auto. Putting car back together. Not a street car by any means though. I had a small Isky cam but not sure if they still offer /6 cams...

If you are unfamiliar with casting numbers and want to know if a slant has a steel crank or not, just look at the ridge right behind where the water pump mounts. The chunk of steel that runs to side of the block (triangular in a way) will be kinda flat and wide on a steel crank engine. Cast...

Thanks 805. I'll have to save up and see it where it goes. The last combo was milder and won a lot of brackets. I have that "go faster" disease though!! My head is cut around .115. Any word on quality with the Molnar or K-1's? I heard it's the same thing??

Thanks guys. 805, I haven't measured it out yet. I'm thinking about going with the Molnar rods so I may not go quite that much but am thinking around .100. I remember that my head was $100 to do but still haven't installed the valves yet. I'm pricing this out before it goes down. The local...

Assembling a new /6. Has anyone here recently had the block decked?? Want to remove about a .100. I guess it depends on the area but what is a fair price?

That should be a '68-75 steel crank engine with 5 freeze plug block. I have an AM casting engine in my' 71 Dart. The "BH" castings are said to be extra thick ribbed and good for racing purposes.

Blocks are identical so I bet it was a possibility that they ran out of 225's. If it was going down the line and something was close enough, they put it in. They didn't toss it. The only 198 I have ran across was in a 1974 duster. I don't have the rods but I actually am using the 198 block in my...

Bill, where can you buy the rods/pistons together?

A pair of NOS Monroe Matics (the blue ones) bought at a flea market for $10 :D

Cheap and 198 rods don't go in the same sentence. You will probably pay $200+ or so for the set. Then you are probably going to have them reconditioned. 198's are not common engines to begin with. Good luck in the search/build.

My dads FD has a steel trunk lid as well. No weight savings at all there. Its only got 85k miles on it. Never been wrecked and I believe dad is the third owner. 100% factory.

Awesome. My dad owns one in B5 blue. It gets 29 mpg on the highway. Love the car!

Not my favorite engine but I certainly appreciate all the effort that goes into it. That is hot rodding. At least it's not another how do I put a Chevy into blah blah ...done to death. Besides, I am the guy that wanted to put a 331 Hemi engine into a '74 road runner. I got lots of "why???"...

I talked to him today about rods. He only ran the billet rods for one season. He has ran stock 198 rods since 1996 turning 7000rpm at 14:1 compression. But different things work for different people.

450hp...naturally aspirated?? I don't think so..and without headers?? I think the seller is full of it. A /6 pushing around 300hp or close to it has about every mod you can think of and radical at that. You can bet it's got headers to.

One of the local guys has a race set made by Pauter. Being that they were around $1k, I'd go with something else. I didn't know of any issues with the K1's. The stock rods are plenty tough IMO...

Schneider Cams. They are not technically listed (as far as specific grinds) anymore but I contacted less than a month ago. They told me $200 plus shipping.

I like the idea of a turbo /6 and there are some out there that run really hard-- but to me, it is a ton of work and hassle to get it "right". It is never as easy and cheap as some make it out to be. Forgot about bolting it on and going fast. Prepare for lots of tinkering. But this is my...

Right on!! Talked to a few guys running 11:1 + with them and no issues. I can't find the .080 ones anymore though....

You hit the nail on the head. All really good advice. I wished I would have known on the head deal when it came to shaving. I cut mine but wished I would have done the block instead. I have one of the JP timing chains and it's a really nice piece. I learned that you go really fast in a /6...

http://www.gearvendors.com/hrdodge3s.html 904 units are available....

I bought a 198 back in 2006. It was factory from a '73 or '74 Duster with a 3 speed manual in the floor.

The last /6 727 that I sold, I told the guy it was a core and needed a rebuild. He gladly drove four hours to get it and paid me $150 for it. I believe this was in 2006. We can go on and on about a 727 vs. a 904. The 904 takes about half the hp to run vs. the 727. It's at least 30 pounds...

Looks really nice and very similar to my /6 head. How much was it milled?? 1.70/1.44 valves???