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http://www.wallaceracing.com/carb-cfm-vacuum.php

I can do it with my iPhone.

Two steps colder on the plugs.

I use a propane torch.

I would go to the Champion website and cross reference it.

Wix filters. Www.filter1.com

One step colder for every 100 hp. Thats not my opinion that’s the recommendation of the spark plug the manufactures.

I would start at 63 and step up if needed.

170000 km he said which is 105000 miles.

I use HEI coil. 99.9% don’t know that and the .1% that do don’t even see it. I do have the ballast in place with the resistor removed using a jumper wire in its place

Awesome thanks!

Oh yeah the sticky. Never thought to look first. I should know better! Thanks.

Any feedback on these heads? Speedmaster PCE281.2146: Cast Aluminum Cylinder Head Small Block Mopar 318/340/360 w/Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam | JEGS

I would replace them one at a time.

Time for spark plug school 10 factors that influence correct spark plug heat range for street and racing

He’s at 10.5 to 1

Champion, Autolite, NGK, whatever. 2 steps colder from stock. IMHO.

We just did the cam in a 383 replacing a solids for hyd. We had the same question. The man at Hughes said 1 turn.

The dot is for the 0 offset That put the cam in straight up. You use the keyway marked zero. The 4 degrees retarded or advance are also marked and you use the corresponding keyway if you choose to adv. or retard the cam. Where was it when you started? Leave it there.

Captain obvious with that vid.

Nevemind. Cruze426 pointed out the fact that the big hole bearing is wider. Its #5. Doh!

So one bearing has a bigger hole in it. Any info on where that one goes?

1990 Dodge Ram starter

Great info Thanks!. I have the exact replacements. I pulled the rod bearings and no issues were found. So Ill run it.

i had the trans out last year and seen no oil up higher. From looking at oil flow (Sometime Google give you more then you want) it looks like oil feeds the 5 main then the connecting rod. So If the #5 connecting rod bearings are Ok the it should be ok to run Im thinking.

Right, I hear that. Funny part is I only pulled the cap to repair the leaking rear seal. Might have to go to plan B.

The crank pic is after I cleaned it up. Both rear bearings look the same. Number 4 is ok. Didn’t pull the others yet. I’ll Change the bearings and run it. I’ve had the car for 6-7 years. The motor was never apart since I’ve had it. Oil pressure has always been good. Running 10w-40.

No other numbers

No date code on it unfortunately.

Pull my rear main to replace the seal and lo and behold the bearing was a mess. All the others are fine. The crank was not hurt and I was able to clean it up nicely. 360 out of a 1974 Challenger. Not sure if its ever been apart. Any ideas to what happened to the rear main?