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I bought the ebay kit ($9.99) for my H4 lights. 16ga wires do not get hot, or warm for that matter.

Conversion kits with relays all over Ebay for $10.

Buy a Power Probe 3. Best tool you can have.

Pay someone to do it. :thumbsup:

He rev limiter worked good for me. Thats the only Pro Comp part. Upgraded to a MSD for 2 step function. HEI I think is as solid as the MSD as far as spark goes.

Every tool box needs a Power Probe 3. With the horn on the car you can feed power or ground right to the horn and instantly know if the horn is good.

Had same problem. Cold start easy, hot start acted like it was flooded. Reluctor gap of the Summit brand dizzy was way too big. Easy enough to check. Good luck

I would wire it open.

correct. I guess I should have been more specific that the alt is the parasitic draw.

Bad alternator?

A battery at 11.9 volts is basically junk. Start by replacing that.

If that dizzy has a module attached to it does that mean its used without and external module and ballast?

POS. Thanks guys!

My buddy has one of these. What is it? Sorry only one pic.

You want a plug hot enough to keep itself clean. To cold and it will foul. Too hot and it will ping. Idle has nothing to do with it. https://www.autolite.com/docs/default-source/tech-specs/understanding-spark-plugs/autolite_heat-range-facts.pdf

That would be correct on a stock engine.

Yes

Ton of spark plug info. spark plug info

Go down two heat ranges.

If you haven’t dropped plug heat range thats next the next step https://www.autolite.com/docs/default-source/tech-specs/understanding-spark-plugs/autolite_heat-range-facts.pdf

Power Probe will load a line. Its just a matter of learning how to use all the functions.

Pick yourself up a Power Probe 3. Volt meters and test lights went out with the telephone.

I’d run the big wire.

Define won’t turn on again. Turns over and won’t start or dead altogether? Sure its not flooding out? Heres where I would begin. Won’t cost a dime either. Make sure the floats are below the sight hole, not trickling out. I would tie the choke open. You don’t need it. Just start the car and...

I had the same problem. Turned out to be the reluctor gap.

I would go to the MSD website. All that stuff is on there.

Are the wires all hacked up? This forum loves pictures.

If the alternator has two fields one of them goes to the vr and the other needs to be grounded

I looked through the online wiring diagrams and see no bl/wh wires. Where do those wires originate from if you follow them back?