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When I needed longer studs I went oversize not that they were loose just that no-one had longer studs with my knurl. I think I bought .490 knurl. Just a tad bigger but they pressed in no prob.

I just swapped to power brake and never did the bench bleed. I would just bleed the brakes like you normally would. Worked for me.

https://therammaninc.com/files/categories/Moparts_Complete_Guide_to_Mopar_Master_Cylinders_1967-19746.pdf

Info about factory master cylinder sizes for the curious minds. https://therammaninc.com/files/categories/Moparts_Complete_Guide_to_Mopar_Master_Cylinders_1967-19746.pdf

IMHO opinion I would leave the back alone. Unless you are road racing there nothing much to gain back there.

Run a bead of weld around the race and let it cool. You can the use the weld bead to catch a chisel on. They should almost fall out.

Take the clip off the hose. Pull it down out of the bracket so you can turn the hose portion not the hard line fitting. Once hose is off you can free up the line fitting.

I would install a heat shield just to be safe.

Sholud have asked that question before you bought it:steering:

I used the set up from SSBC. Rotor can do small or big bolt pattern. Top notch stuff. You will pay a bit more but when it comes to brakes saving a few buck might not be the best thing. IMHO. ssbrakes.com

That isn’t right as I’m seeing the long shoe on the front.

They look correct

Front spring looks tweaked for one. I was taught to put front spring on last. Not that matters. But beyond that all the springs are, are return spring. Sure you have correct shoes and proper asjustment?

Got them and recommend them. Customer service is great too

Cable goes on first. Never between

Only difference is the spindle size. No drilling needed

the bearings should have a number on them. You can get them anywhere

You can mount it any way you like. That valve is designed to hold hundreds of pounds of pressure. Mounting it upside down won't make it leak.

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/quest/binder_juice.html

I just put them on my car and everything went according to plan. I would recommend them. You have to swap the studs (included) if you want sbp

If the shoes are installed properly and I assume they are. Long and short on each side. Long shoe in the back. Then I would look at the left side. The side not working. Might be a deteriorated hose causing obstruction in the line. I have also see a corroded clamp squeeze the hose almost closed

If you have the drum off can you turn the hub. I assume yes in that the wheel on the other side turns Did the car skid to a stop or did you put the emergency brake on and now it won't move? Next I would try to pull the emergency cable and see if it moves easily. I would guess that the problem

Im putting the same kit on mine and it came with the prop valve. Time to give SSBC a call

Stainless Steel Brake makes a complete package including the master cylinder. My brother has the 4wheel setup on his 68 Dart and it works great. Installiation was a breeze. There was an issue with the rear brakes and his Moser axles which required some shimmming amd one blames the other as far...

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/quest/binder_juice.html

Wilwood makes a disc set up for 9" but the street set up uses 15" wheels http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitSearch.aspx?year=1971&make=Plymouth&model=Duster&option=9" Inch Drum Brake Spindle&whl=15

here is something interesting about silicone brake fluid http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/quest/BINDER_JUICE.html

Right you guys are. Im thinking the master cylinder. The slaves work the opposite. There goes my mistake for the year!

I would think smaller cylinders in the rear would make it worse

First thing I would do its get the engine back in it