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You can leave the inner on your pin if your using your stock pins OR my pins have the correct inner ID on them already.

Sorry for your troubles. The good thing about being small is you can handle things quick. I’m also available almost any time. Live and learn.

If you are happy with OEM, you will be really happy with the Borgeson. I feel the Borgeson is much sharper on center and responds instantly. These characteristics make it feel like a modern car.

Hard to tell from the photos, is the center link on backwards?

Doubtful it will clear without work.

You still need “plunge” to take up the movement of the chassis. This is why the coupler was designed the way it was. Besides, you need to be able to tie up angle as well.

Borgeson Steering Box Conversion Kit - Small Sector - Bergman Auto Craft

I sell the RCD bilsteins as well. Bergmanautocraft.com I prefer them because they are monotube construction which yields a higher quality part. Personally, I stay away from the popular twin tube types which is most of the market. For drag racing do need a a whole different setup. I’d suggest one...

I bought these in 93 direct from Flofit. They are no longer in business. This company supplied Saleen during the Fox body Mustang days.

That’s interesting as mine weren’t. Mopar also called out there wasn’t a need for offset with the stiffer bars. Learn something every day

I’ll agree with both of you here. The suspension is designed to operate in a range. Lowering too much without using shorter bump stops is not good. That said, the bigger issue with lowering too much even with short bump stops is the fact you are inducing body roll by lengthening the moment arm...

Just for reference, none of the Mopar Performance bars over 1” had offsets.

I’d you decide to upgrade to one of my kits, let me know.

Where is the fitting that belongs in the box? Can you send more pics?

The second photo of the washer means that K had a sway bar.

Alignment specs depend on a lot of factors. If you use FMJ spindles for example, they have more camber gain in compression. This would allow you to use less static camber. Caster is a big point of contention, as you increase caster, you are lifting the inside wheel in turns. There is a point...

i sell my bolt in kit. No column cutting and uses factory hoses. I’m a site sponsor and a member for 10+ years.

I didn’t know what your engine application was. I have the AN fittings for the box and PTFE hose if needed. Just PM me.

Yes 5-0080 is correct No you don’t. But why would you want to cut your column and have universal hoses that are too long?

I sell the coupler on my site, Bergmanautocraft.com. There is only one bolt in style coupler for both box sizes. I also have the fittings to use factory hoses.

That’s a lot of movement, but it’s in the right direction. Toe out on droop will help the inside wheel steer into the corner reducing under steer. I’d try dropping the outer mounting point.

Has anyone run the software using a realistic base alignment numbers? Zero camber and 1 def caster is not realistic.

Moog bought Mevotech. Moog still claims made in USA... Centric brake pads at least are pure garbage. You are better off having your pads relined at Porterfield.

AMK manufacturers Mopar hardware.

Sounds like too much toe in.

You can always step up to delrin. No inner or outer shell needed if you use my pins. They’re on my site. Bergmanautocraft.com

Probably not.

Nicest front bar in the market. Welding their tabs on to non tab lower arms works perfectly.

bergmanautocraft.com

No build thread as over the 35 years it’s evolved. Never really off the road for a make over. Some quick specs: 410,11.3 hyd roller, ported Edelbrocks 833, 3.09 first 1:1 top gear Alum driveshaft, 1350 joints A body 8.75, 2.94, Eaton tru trac 1.12 t bars Hotchkiss shocks and sway bars BAC/SPC...