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The middle bulkhead connector is the one with the blue and brown wire that supplies the signal to "turn on" the MSD unit. The brown wire is powered in the start position and the blue is powered in the run position, so when you tie them together you have constant power to the unit.

They're trying to get rid of them since MSD discontinued those. Good price for an upgrade to your ignition system.

No need to ask for an acceptance of an apology, just offering one shows good form. We can only on what info is given to us and now we have a bigger picture of what was going on. Sorry to hear about your son and situation. If you need anymore help or support the FABO community is here.

Well you know what they say about curiosity :D You just thought someone was is dire need of something and had to see if you could help out.....thats just what makes you the great person that you are. Hope you're having a great day Leanna.

Like I said connect the dark blue wire from your steering column to the small red wire on the msd unit. Then try starting your car. If it starts and shuts off like it should, you will know that that system works and finish your wiring from there. If it doesn't work you probably have a problem...

Right on the nose :cheers: Tap into the dark blue wire in the harness coming out of the steering column under the dash and connect it straight to the small red wire of the msd unit. If that doesn't work you have other problems with your wiring.

Yep, lack of info could get very irritating too :violent1:

This thread is not about vehicle info, its about him expecting an instant answer and saying he's disappointed in us for not giving him one in the time frame that he wanted. This isn't a 24hr tech hotline, its a forum. If someone is online with the answer to your question, you'll get an answer...

You could have given it at least a full day before starting this kind of thread. You asked a question on a Friday evening when alot of members might be out instead of sitting at home on their computer, then express disappointment on a Saturday morning. But regardless of what day it is, give it...

Hey Slantsixdan, are you the "Daniel Stern" Dan? If you are, I've been using info off your site for years. Just thought I'd ask cause it only now started to click in my head :tongue3:

Like redfastback stated the relay setup would help even without the alt upgrade. Its actually a good thing to do on just about any car. You can find quite a few of the H4 conversions on Egag. Normally less than $40.

Well its been awhile, the last car I wired was when I flew to Texas and completely rewired Chads Duster. There should be a ground wire in the trunk. Check around the bracket that has the trunk latch. Also check the light sockets, I've had to change a few of those too.

If its a white ceramic looking thing, its the ignition resistor. If you're running points you need it. If you're running an electronic ignition, like a MSD, you don't need it.

You could add a normally open relay in the field line instead of getting a new switch. It would activate (close) when the switch is on and open when you turn the switch off. I think that would be the easiest/cheapest fix since it won't have to be high amp relay.

Okay I'll take a shot at this one, should work just fine if its like anyother tach. I should get its signal off of the coil so having an electronic ignition shouldn't make a difference, unless its a MSD.

My 72 Dusters got em, but its in Hawaii and I'm in Vegas :( Sorry. I was also told buy a couple of other Duster owners in Hawaii that the 340 cars didn't have them, but my Duster is an original 340 car and it has them.

The painless ones are nice, thats what we put in Chads car. You could go with a forward lighting harness and just make your own for the engine since you're running a MSD and a 1-wire alt.

Okay time for some useless information. When I was in high school we figured out a way to listen to radio in my friends 69 Plymouth wagon without the key, he was in class and took the keys with him. If I remember right we would step on the brake, turn on the hazards, then pull the turn signal...

I've got the H4 upgrade for my Duster thats going in when I put it back together. I've always wanted brighter lights for the older cars :D I was looking at the wiring diagram for a 69 Cuda and it seems like the only way to do a third brake light is to tap into one of the brake lights. The...

I'm pretty sure that they kept the same color coding in 74 that they did in 72, so you would want to look for the Orange wire under your dash that goes into the big round connector behind your instrument panel. If you can get to your headlight switch connector easier, its the Tan wire. It...

What I would do is use that switched line you have to activate a 30 amp relay. That would give you an additional 30 amp circut of switched power. From the relay you could make an aux fuse box or just a barrier strip terminal to tap the power from. As far as you guages go, tap into the factory...

Maybe this will help

PM your email address to me and I'll email you a wiring diagram for an a-body with a dual field system. If someone just wired it into your car, just make sure one of the field wires are tapped into a source thats hot with the key on.

I think I have a thumbwheel radio on one of my shelves. I'll try to find it this weekend and let you know. If its what you need, you can have it.

Cool link.

You might want to upgrade the regulator if its still using the old style.

I believe the 3spd and variable spd wiper motors are the same. When I looked them up before they always had the same part #. So I would guess the wiring would be the same. I think the difference is in the switch itself.

Check your connector at the bulk head to make sure its melted before you go buying a new one. The engine harness is available thru most of the resto parts places (year one, laysons, paddock,etc.). The bulk head itself is part of the underdash harness, the engine harness will have the connector...

I've seen quite a few of those too :shock: One thing that helps prevent that, as long as you're not into the whole originality thing, is to run headlight relays. When you start running the new high output headlight bulbs, you start pulling a whole lot of current through the bulk head...

If all your fuses blew sounds like you had a major surge of voltage. Your fusible link is probably fried too, provided that it hasn't already been by passed. Sounds like it could have because thats supposed to protect the entire system. The fan and radio probably still come on because they're...