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Andy is also a member of FABO. Haven't dealt with him in a while, but a great guy.

You can also use AndyF's caliper brackets to run Wilwood calipers with the 11.75" rotors. Thats the set up I got for my 68 Cuda.......whenever I get around to building it :banghead:

I tried a set of R1 rotors a few years ago on my Mercedes. They were drilled and slotted, but the first set they sent me had too much runout. When you spun them you could see it, didn't even have to put a dial indiacator on it. The replacements they sent me were okay. I'm also the type that...

Maybe AndyF will make a kit for thoses next :toothy10:

Like abodyjoe said....grab that 8 1/4. Definately better than your 7 1/4 and you might get lucky, it might have a SG in it.

Andyf has got some good stuff. I used to sell his parts in Hawaii before I moved to Vegas.

The last time I tried the adjustable pushrod on an abody, it was too long even when at its shortest setting.

Since you already have the disc, you could get the adapters to run the wilwood cailpers with the 11.75 disc. They're alot lighter than the stock setup and you'll have a good 4 piston caliper.

Is this something you're looking at? This ones a little cheaper, but with shipping might end up close to the same. http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/742001453.html

Don't forget the weight savings :read2: Heres a link that shows the conversion and actually shows the caliper and brackets on the scale. http://www.arengineering.com/caliper/wilwood/caliperframe.html

I'm pretty sure you would. The 11.75 x 1" rotor is the HD rotor on the Cordobas. AREngineering made an adapter to use the Wilwood caliper with the 11.75" rotor. It saved quite a bit of weight over using the factory caliper.

You will need the LBP disc brake spindle(73 & up) and also the 73 & up abody upper control arm. Check the "parts for sale" section.

I would say it all depends on what you're planning on doing with your car. If you're just drag racing or doing some street cruising, the small ball joints should be just fine. Its not like you see tons of them breaking all over the place. But if you plan on doing some road racing and hanging...

I got one of those from Motive awhile ago. Before that I had one from Snap-on that you attached to the bleeder and it would suck the fluid thru. They make life so much easier:thumblef:

Pulling up on the brake pedal usually works for me. The little rubber retainers are still available from the dealer and are really cheap. If you need one I got a few extras :wink:

If its the lightweight M/C with the plastic top then it wouldn't have the valve.

Are you talking about the residual pressure valve? Most of the new type master cylinders don't have them.

If the short one was working and there is no noticeable problem, you should be fine using it. In most applications the left and right hoses are the same. Put the short one on the side that had the long hose and turn the steering lock to lock. If it doesn't yank on the hose, you're in business.

Heres a link to a parts list for disc brakes. http://www.arengineering.com/factpart/factpart.html Manual brakes will be more than adequate to stop your car. I would go with the lightweight late model type of master cylinder. Let me know if you need the adapter for the conversion.

It doesn't take much to clog up a brake line. I would disconnect the rear hose from the hard line going to the front. Then disconnect the hard lines from each of the back calipers. Blow air thru the hose and make sure you have rags or something to catch the fluid coming out of the lines...

Are you bleeding them by yourself or is someone actually pushing on the pedal while you open the bleeder screws? Sounds like something is plugged.

The heads are looking good. Just cleaned them up a little and they look great. What head gaskets did you use with them? I didn't see anything on the edelbrock website about what type of head gasket to use/not use. I don't want to do anything to ruin them.

Which master cylinder are you using? As far as the proportioning valve goes, I would just run an adjustable one for the rear. Most master cylinders are biased to the front, but with the disc in the rear you're going to have to "dial" out the rear a little more. In fact your rear discs will...

I also read that if you have a container of brake fluid with a lot of little air bubbles in it, pour it into a pot and heat it on the stove. The bubbles will rise to the top and it will look like it boiling, when the bubbles are gone let it cool and use.

DOT 5 is good for show cars and cars that aren't going to be doing a lot of performance driving. I've been trying to figure out what to put in my new system and from what I've read is if you're going to be putting alot of stress on the brakes its best to go with a Hi Temp DOT 4. The silicone...

I sent you a PM.

Hey Kev, I would try the stock one first. The one I put on Chads car worked fine with the stock pushrod. The new adjustable pushrod that MP has is about an inch longer than the stock Duster one. Make sure that you get the rubber retaining ring for the pushrod if your stock one will work. You...

When I went to El Paso to help Chad with his Duster I had sent up an aluminum master cylinder with the adapter and heatshield. When we installed it, it turned out that the stock pushrod was the right length. We tried installing a new adjustable one first, but it turned out to be too long at...

Give John Cambridge a call, he's a dealer for Inline tubing.

You put it in line to your rear brakes.