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Learn something new everyday :cheers: I was also under the impression that 400's only came with cast cranks. I might have to start looking at them a little more closely now :glasses7:

You could also piece a system together using the carb hats for blow thru turbo/supercharger systems.

From what I've heard, you might want to stay away from those.

And if all else fails a 250 shot should get you there......at least once :geek:

2000 was the last year they put it in the catalog, my 2001 catalog doesn't have it :(

:D

Not if you got TTI headers :geek:

Yep what they said :D

At least you got the right idea for now :thumrigh:

I got that 509 cam in the new engine I built with the Eddy heads. I haven't fired it up yet, but now I'm wondering if I should change it out. That the 3rd cam thats been in that engine and it has even been started once :roll:

Sounds like you're on the right track. It'll all work out in the end :thumrigh:

Hurry and get than thing to the track before that white stuff starts rolling in. Don't forget the pics and time slips :D :thumleft:

Joe's on the money, you want alot of low end torque for what you want to do. The XE268 should give you a nice beat and still keep the power down low where you can make the best use of it with the 3.23 gear. With that 509 cam you will need alot of stall, and with a 3.23 gear you'll be...

It should be fine behind that big block. Just don't go putting some crazy cam and stall converter in it. If you need more power at the track, just add a little NOS to it :sunny:

I kinda had my eye on those stroker short blocks MP has now. I wonder how one would run with the heads I got from Brett 8)

This is what it says in the Larry Shepard book: "Note the notch on end of hydraulic rocker shaft. It should be pointing to the centerline of the engine and toward the front of the engine on the left bank and to the rear on the right bank." It also has a tightening sequence for the hold down...

Hydraulic cam 7.514" P4529540 Solid cam 7.34" P4529541 Hope this helps.

Thanks for the first hand heads up :thumleft: Sorry you had to go thru the bad experience to find out :(

:shock: Better not get too close, you might get sucked in :D

They're referring to the econo W2 heads. LA refers to the 273/340/360 and the later 318(67&up). "A" engines are the 277/301/318(66&earlier).

Go with a 340 if you budget allows it, if not a warmed over 318 will work just fine. Stay with the 4 1/2" bolt pattern, all you should need is the spindles and calipers.

I forgot to ask, what kind of gears are you going to run?

Welcome back :cheers: You could go with a SRP forged piston and something like a Mopar Performance 292/.509 cam for a nice hot street engine. If you go with the forged pistons then you don't have to worry as much if you decide to add a little nitrous later :thumrigh:

I'd take a leaky adapter over a leaky rear main any day :wink: Must be nice finally being able to drive your car :thumrigh:

Sounds great.....When do we start :D

Real Nice :thumleft: Welcome :salut:

Get your exhaust and ignition done then work your way up to the intake. A MSD will work fine with a stock electronic distributor. The MSD 6A is fairly cheap, it just doesn't have a rev limiter like the 6AL. But I don't think you need to worry about a rev limiter for a while. Let us know when...

That sounds like a better plan. Save the cam change for when you redo the engine. Intake, exhaust, and ignition should wake that 318 up. At least you'll be able to reuse those parts when you redo your engine.

Greg made a good point. Thats a lot of work for a high mileage engine. I got my 82 5th Ave to run 14.9 with the stock cam in the 318. I put a Edelbrock LD4B, Holley 600 vacuum, MSD 6A, TA valvebody, 2000 stall, and a 8 3/4 with 3.91 SG. Stock exhaust manifold with 2 1/2" pipes and...

Make sure you get an intake for the 318 and not the 340/360. The ports on the 318 are smaller so you need to get the intake to match.