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MUCH heavier piston and rod...............and on that note, if the valve train were good to go, I wouldn't be afraid of 7000

They are 1.908

Here's a question, or 2, or 3...........for the sake of discussion, what are your piston choices IF the valves hit, what would you do IF you only had .010inch clearance with the valve open........loose rule of thumb is .080 intake, .100 exhaust, how would that impact your build..........are you...

As YR stated, why not mock up your assembly and then find out IF you hit or NOT, and WHAT your clearance is, if any.......it's good to ask questions here, but there is no substitute for checking and measuring on your own........some one 1000 miles away does not have a crystal ball clear enough...

Your engine is telling you it wants a slightly smaller cam........think about it

As others have stated...........go small block; you've already got brackets, mounts, tranny, so no money spent there. Power level you are looking for is an easy target to hit. Your short block, more cam though not too much, heads that flow some air, chamber volume to the small side to build...

Another way to look at this is it's "safe" 500 rpm past the point it stops pulling with authority, or as they say "when it lays down"

I was thinking more along the lines of 6500 to 7000rpm

I'm old school, I prefer to look in a book rather than surf the web and get 20 different answers from 15 different people. Paper is cheep, write down WHAT YOU want, your performance goals and how much you want to spend; this will be an ongoing guide till you are done. Get a factory service...

What makes you think you can't? Your own research shows them to work on lot's of "B" and "RB" that were progenitors of your 440. They will bolt down, the big question is what your compression ratio will work out to be, they are a small chamber head. Need information on what pistons, how far...

Lois Lane?????

The Dash number at the end of the casting number refers to the number of core changes that have been made on that set of core patterns.

Double nut the studs to pull them out, just remember that those bolts holes go into water jacket, and/or jack up the engine

You are correct about needing to know head gasket thickness, and what they are referring to is "crushed" thickness........for a standard head gasket in a rebuilders gasket set, you will need to dig into the manufactures catalog, though truth be told, I'd look some place else for a gasket, not...

I'm pretty sure the short one is for a car, the long one is industrial truck 413. Others may know more.

Factory hardware will be just fine at the build level you are describing

As the name implies, they screw in and out, have a jam nut to lock them down, can use them in place of adjustable rockers.

Sell them!!!!.........As I said they are a desirable head; one year only. Some one doing a restoration might be glad to have them...........then you could go aluminum, have a fair portion of the cost covered by the sale of the 915's. It's a thought...........

Here is some thing to chew on................. From "Car Craft" July 2012 A 400 cube Mopar "B" by Brian Haflinger of IMM. Started with a pair of E-Bay 906 heads that were complete for $125.00, milled the heads for $120.00, 3 angle valve job for $160. They kept the stock 2.07 intake and 1.74...

See what it looks like after a WD-40 and a ScotchBrite rub down..........

Have it shot blasted, it will make a world of difference. BTW..........The guy's from "Hot Heads" started with a rustier block than that for their "Engine Masters" Weber carbed Hemi they built. It just takes patients.

Decades ago, Bill Bagshaw (?) of "Pro parts" fame built a 440 in "Car Craft" that made 511 Hp, TRW pistons don't remember the number at the moment, MP 509 hydraulic, M1 single plane and 750 Holley, ported 906 heads with big valves, was a pump gas build. IMOP, I think the OP is gonna see his...

All else fails, pull a head, next best thing to paper work. If he won't let you pull a head it's a $100.00 core with a DuPont over haul (fresh paint).

I think you're SOL..........there is no support from the aftermarket for pistons for the 361. I would suggest thinking out side the box, but that does not generally go well with limited budget, but paper is cheep, other wise look for another 383/400 block. Don't throw the 361 away yet.

Something more to think about................. Years ago, Steve Dulich did a build up story in "Mopar Muscle" with a stock spec re-manufactured 383 Magnum, gave it a break in/base line run on the dyno. Magnums were rated from the factory at 335HP, he got real close to that, +/- 5, I think. He...

Here's a left field thought.......is the pit inside or outside the area of ring travel. If the rings don't pass over the pit, it doesn't interfere with ring seal, no harm done; go! If the rings will pass over it then sleeve it, it's not a big deal.

Lash would be zero, pre-load how ever is............do you have an adjustable rocker set up, or adjustable push rods? I would start with 1/2 to 3/4 turn after zero lash, experiment with what the engine likes, maybe tighter, maybe looser. If you don't have adjustable valve train, bolt the...