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I just got a 60x40 spray foamed for about 12,000. Closed cell walls, open cell ceiling. If that helps for planning!!

My Samsung tv's and phones have been fine, but I agree with the above about appliances. Built our house 4 years ago. Fridge/freezer lost the ice maker function at 2 years. Dish washer doesn't clean well or dry. Digital display on clock of oven is missing digits. Absolute junk. Never again.

that's nifty!!

Thanks for that optimistic point of view!!! I was glad to get it under wraps.

For anyone mildly interested in my immense failure of the complexity that is the npt joint... lol For whatever reason, regular old Teflon tape, and my trusty white ptfe permatex paste, had about a 60% failure rate. (Didn't mix them, just switched back and forth pending the joint location and...

It's a valid question. On that 2 way splitter valve, I had no choice but to sweat it. I was nervous about melting that seal, but was careful with heat, and used water to keep that part cool/isolated.

I at least have the soapy bubble leaks fixed. What do you mean solder while the adapters were made up? Like if I had a doped up npt connection together, then got it hot by soldering next to it? No, all soldering was done before any NPT.

It operates at 15, blow off valve is 30. But to your point...its holding 30, so I'm probably good. Thanks!!

Yes, it's all NPT. Everything was new from menards. Probably overseas origin. I don't think I over tightened them originally, but did sure give them hell after re taping/thread sealing.

Yeah, floor loops are good. Yes its laid out correctly. It's a carbon copy of a pre assembled panel sold at menards.

The concrete portion is good to go. This slow leak is just the panel. It's not mounted yet

Tiny little soap bubbles. I have always been told plumbing projects need to hold x2 pressure fir 24 hrs. I'm not a code contractor, but have always used that ballpark. They are TIGHT.

Correct on the glycol mixture. Those are interesting points. I too wondered if it's a ball valve leaking, which is fairly irrelevant once mounted, but a bad bladder in the tank, or a pump shaft may also be the culprit. Soapy water has stopped revealing any leaks, but to Robs @RustyRatRod...

Well gents, you guys have helped me with everything from thermostat install to asphalt driveways, so here is today's conundrum. As many of you know, I built a pole building with radiant in floor pex heating. I pressure checked the " in floor" portion and it held 50 psi for months and months...

I have used what's called "bank run" which is various sized gravel/sand specifically meant to pack. We have also used a morter mixed limestone, which is mainly used for filling pot holes in gravel driveways, and turns to a hard base with moisture. If you still need 7 or 8 inches of fill, I...

Ditto on the pro's of the 2, outweighing the pro's of the 4. Sometimes I get annoyed at my 2 post as I circle for the 3rd time and reposition the arms just right, especially for something simple like an oil change, but....fluid changes is honestly 95% of what I could see doing on a 4 post, or...

called menards and they gave me a diagram to follow for laying everything out, and told me what all to buy. was pretty simple at the end of the day.

Thanks for all the opinions guys. Did the concrete and floor heating about a year ago lol all set.

I seriously contemplated one of these steel frame buildings before I built my pole barn. What I found was they were extremely reasonable via various "carport" style construction companies, until you strayed from the basics. If you are ok with with standard shape, roll up doors, 3 or 4 /12 pitch...

Did you do the in floor pex yourself? I'm having trouble getting supply houses to Even return calls. I'm more than capable of buying pex from menards and zip tying it to my rebar....but would really like some advice on how big of spaces to leave between rows....how long of runs to do? I assume...

I'm a long way from all that :) it's up though. Garage doors on backorder. Probably do the radiant floor heating piping, and concrete this summer. With conduit for water and electric when I get to it (probably next summer)

thats awesome feedback! thank you!

thanks so much! seems like the pex part isn't too bad. we don't have any gas out here so would have to look into an electric heater. I'd assume that isn't as "easy" as residential grade hot water heater. I'll keep researching. thank you.

Yes, I was thinking about that the other day. Why didn't I plumb a water line out of the house when I built it...and just leave is capped somewhere in the yard! My builders are amish....not really the authority on insulation or electric :p

That I didn't think of!!!! Mice out here in the woods are a bugger.

Wish I would have thought of that!!!!! These guys work too fast!

Floor is not poured. Still dirt. I'm not sure what you mean though, the pex water lines? Or something else?

Missed that opportunity! They work too fast!

If you don't mind me asking...how expensive was that floor heat. And did you install yourself? Any tips or links to what kind of unit or materials? Thank you!!

Thank you, I assume you used a roll bat, then drywalled over? Is yours steel sided?