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yeah. mine are 100% a 15 inch wheel, and i did not have hub issues. the "welds" do however have a large center bore...i wouldn't have any idea if a mag 500 would go over the hub.

front wheels are weld racing knockoffs, sold by jegs, summit, and the Actual company called "ultra wheel" i think they are a zero offset 4 inch wheel. I run a 28 inch tall skinny, which i think i would probably go down in size on tire in the future. no real reason other than looks, and i...

Agree on the 8.8 being the new budget go to!

Let me be your first green check. Will a mild engine car with an open diff twist itself into a pretzel??? Or even a pretty hopped up ride with a suregrip be negatively effected? Probably not! Are frame ties "good?" Either in homemade 2x2, or another type. Yes, I believe so. Of course...

X2 for making a set yourself from 2x2 that look like this. I run 10.30's on a homemade 2x2 set that look exactly like this, NOT tied to the floor.

No, not everything in 74 was bbp. Drum cars were avail for sure, and could be sbp.

1974 DODGE DART 5.2L 318cid V8 Steering Gear | RockAuto

I would agree with the above...just because it looks different doesn't mean it won't fit. I have one off a B body (believe they are the same besides pitman arm) if you need to compare to an OE...but I imagine you have a better option than driving an hour for a comparison

@PST gets my vote. killer price and i was very happy with my 16:1 box. Great service also.

I have a cheap ebay one that works fine, but as noted above, I couldn't see it working with a stock steering wheel.

Everything i see says it would be a 36 spline...just like the manual box in the cars. So not sure what odd duck you have there. Mopar manual steering box (and the shaft i bought above) are 36, with a flat. (Or 38 if your u joint doesn't have the flat).

What year truck is the box from?

I bought a replacement shaft for a 90's dodge truck for my b body. Comes with a u joint, a slide shaft, its like the ultimate $40 conversion shaft grab bag of pieces parts that other "steering component" companies charge $300 for. Let me see if I can find it... ------- EDIT HERE IT IS. this...

Those Radial T/A's are a stiff sidewall. the picture looks like it has room. is it hitting? if not...i had much less room that that with T/A's on my dart for years. (or at least what it looks like you have in the picture) i literally had maybe 1/8 of an inch. those sidewalls dont flex at ALL.

I don't know if I have owned a mopar that is 100% symmetrical. 1.5 inches is alot however. Yes I would start dropping plumb bobs and measuring. Changing one spring can't "stretch" the differential. It's either now off Center, if it ever was centered. And/or your quarters aren't 100%...

@SpeedThrills I went with the @PST kit. was complete and priced better than those you posted very happy with it site sponsor too! Leaf Spring Relocation Kit

sorry if i posted the wrong diameter above! this one better? 5/8-36 Spline X 3/4" Round Smooth Universal Black Steering U Joint New | eBay

I forget the year cut off, but some have a telescoping shaft, that extends down, so that extra extension piece isnt needed. 73+ maybe? My 74 didn't need it

It's a round shaft that has flats put on both sides. So it can't rotate inside a coupler.

Mic the shafts to double check me, but pretty sure this is what I used. New 3/4"-36 Spline x 3/4" Round Black Steering Shaft U Joint Powder Coated | eBay

@RustyRatRod

Yet to be determined.lol The suregrip lasted this long pulling the front wheels off the ground in the dart with a bias ply and 5000 stall converter. The Twin setup on the B body will be less...violent than the dart. They come on softer. at least thats what i'm telling myself.lol

the dart runs 10.40's on footbrake. That suregrip owes me nothing. engine makes over 600HP. The B body is getting a twin turbo 408. but remaining on the street. So thats where the suregrip is headed. Spools are $100. I think the switcheroo above is the cheapest/easiest utilizing what i have.

Plan is to pull the sure grip out of the dart. Inspect it and put it in the B body if it's in good shape. With 3.23 ish gears. Put a spool back in the dart. Done :)

3.91 stamped right on the ring gear. Bearings are in good shape...Bearing adjusters seemed loose, but Idk what the end play is. Definitely an open Center. Axles came right out with the 5 bolts on the tubes. Drums and pads honestly look like new. Idk if they need replaced due to age, but...

3.91!

I don't know. I will have to look tomorrow. Where is the "identification pad"? Hopefully I can see it on this 60 year old rear.

The green car has a 742. I could put it in the blue tank, and do a 9 inch for the green one. Would only need to move the perches. This donor was just an easy bolt in. Was praying it had a sure grip. No dice.

I misread it the first time. It's a 741 based on casting numbers. But 742 ALSO had a "2" I get it now. It's late lol.

1820657 I see it now fellas. Thanks!!! So usable for a new sure grip build? Or does the entire Center section need to go, and just the housing is worth anything?