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Moper I was trying to make the point that Jax did not need to make a custom set of headers but if he wanted my thoughts on what to buy and where to shop. Imo I think some off shelf headers would be fine. If I read the second part of you post correctly you are saying on average street/strip...

I dont think bigger is always the best choice for headers. Dyi headers can leave you frustrated and cussing the attempt quickl y. Be warned. buy a bunch of j bends, collectors, and flanges,from anyone or go to columbia river bends, I think thats the name? Also dont get hung up on dropping alot...

Innovators West is what I plan on using next.

You do not need nor do they make all aluminum internals. The crank will be steel and the aluminum rods would not be a great choice. The 440 block will break long befor the use of a good power adder can be fully used. Thw small block may be a better option. Anything over 800 on a stock rb block...

has NOS made a 1K plate yet?

i would not do the 4.88s with a 29" tire. you need to take into account the slip of the converter up to 10%

what was the trap RPM? What was the 60' time

I would call procharger or the supercharger store. Buy a good stroker kit and find a good builder. I would not turbo the engine.

If budget is no concern call Steve Morrison and tell him you have an unlimited budget and want the best engine he can make you that will run on pump gas. Then it wont matter if it is a small block, big block, or modern hemi.

i used studs instead of bolts to hold the rocker shafts down as well as studs on the headers.

if your not using an aftermarket block build the low deck. The block is stronger, you will have less header issues if you choose to runn B1s or -1s.

Nos

i have one....It works.

Before I cross bolted the block I would be worrying about the skimpy area above the crank...

long read and I dont know how accurate the info is. http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

I saw a person put their motor plates on bushing one time. I think it was on bigbockdart. Not sure if it worked or not.

All of my power lines and fittings are good. I have added ground straps but still no go. The motor turns and I have gone around twice to make sure the verter was not welded on the flex plate gear wrong. Gear rotates true motor spin well.

Ok I need help. Started the motor last week with no problems. Today went to stat again and the solinod will fire but the stater gear seem to get getting stuck in the coverter gear and wont spin. It gets stuck about halfway through the starters extention. What I do have. Plenty of power, no...

I think 540

Depending on the motor combo I am sure BG would tell you to run their 850.. So if the Holley flows 830 to 850 your in the ball park. Most motors that need more than 850cfm ie you tight, high flow head 440 and 500+ci motors will jump to a 1050 dominator.

700HP out of any N/A moter is hard and will take big bucks (7 to 10g's). And a street pump gas sub 440ci to me is undoable. Formula for 700HP street motor N/A.... Big cubes- 500+ Big heads lots of port work. Roller cam (a solid with enough lift for said heads will have duration issues) Not...

I don't know on the SB but on some BB covers there is a double rail that the gasket sits in. Mine leaked so I grinded the inside rail off. This let the cover sit flat. You might want to check it.

You will get a differant answer for about everyone you talk to. I have heard from 550 to 800 on studs with the stock caps. Motors in the 700 to 800 will do better on the stock cap if the have an aluminum rod. The RPM will also play a big part on cap life high comp. steel rods, and 7K plus RPM...