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Did it line up before? The only time I ran into this is when trying to swap /6 and small block parts. I'd try to find out which part is wrong first and I wouldn't attach a flywheel with 5 bolts, see if you can scratch up a v8 flexplate and compare it to the crank and flywheel to see whats...

It should be fine, one of my friends ran 4.30's in his 451 Dart with 275/60 radials for years and they worked good in the 1/4 when he had a hyd cam, when he switched to a solid he went to a 29x11.5 to keep the RPM's in range, it was running 98-99mph in the 1/8, 117-118mph in the 1/4.

They are good rears but hard to come by, I've seen 2-3 in the past 15 years that weren't in someones driver, I ran 8.75's until about 3 years ago when I started looking around for a budget friendly alternative.

Most of the early V8 fords had 8" rears, the 9" that came in them stock wasn't great either, it had small axle bearings, 28 spline axles, etc. The 8" is decent, I knew of someone running one in a valiant and it worked fine, if you're putting out any power run a 3.70 or taller gear, 4.10's...

I'm not sure if rangers ever got rear disc brakes, I cut down a 97 explorer rear for my car, after the swap I measured the 8.8 in my Dad's 98 Ranger and it's about 57.5" wide and the center isn't offset. The hard part about getting a ranger rear is finding a 4.0 5 speed truck with a good gear...

I went this way with the 8.8 in my Dart, if you can find a ranger 8.8 it's the right width already and the center isn't offset. On another note if you have a mild motor, 300hp or less on street radials I bet a 7.5" would hold up fine - they're much stronger than 7.25 chrysler rears, V8...

I usually hammer the hole flat from the inside out and weld it shut, it's a pretty easy fix.

It's an 8 3/8"- pretty much the same as an 8 1/4" so you can get one that will bolt right in out of a 73-76 A body. The rear in the R/T is built pretty crappy, I switched to a 9 1/4 from a regular 5.9 4x4 Durango in my wifes old R/T when the pinion bearing started making noise.

At that level a good rebuilt 904 is fine, if you want a 999 get a non lockup to start with, you're going to need the input shaft and pump from one anyways so it's cheaper to start with the right one first. My buddys 340 Dart ran 10.8's for 3 years with a 4 clutch 904 and 7260 U joints, when he...

Knock on wood - my tube is butt welded and is holding fine, I had the ends of the tube beveled in a lathe and welded them up, one of my friends thats a fabricator told me the weld is the strongest place in that tube now. I reworked a set of 3" perches to fit the larger tubes- had a friend open...

You will need new spring perches, even if the stock perches were the right width the pinion angle would be off anyways, the shockmounts are on the mounting plates so no change there. If you currently have a 7.25 you will need shock mounting plates from a mopar with 3" axle tubes - pretty much...

It will fit and work but it's most likely a lighter duty trans and clutch set up unless it's been changed along the way. My 68 Dart is/was a 273/833 car and it has the lighter duty 833 with a 26 spline output and a 9.5" clutch. I built a better 318 for it and found a 10" clutch that fits...

It's been a while but here's the 8.8, had it under the car for about 2 years now.

I used to run 727's but they're kinda overkill for a A body, they are stronger but a good 904 is worth almost 2/10's on the average 13sec car. One of my friends swapped to a 904 in his 340 swinger when it was running 11.60's and went in the 11.40's the next time out, it runs 9.80's now and...

Yeah the brakes swap, my Dad's 98 Ranger has an 8.8 and uses 97 explorer discs, he had to change the E brake cables but they have to be changed anyways on an A body.

Most of my stuff is stick shift but I've known people that have/had 8" converters in street cars, my friend Jeff's Demon had a 8" that flashed 6,200 but he had a W5 340 & 5.13's, he would shift at 8,600-8,800, it was a street car too he didn't own a trailer or a truck for that matter. He did...

If you're running a 727 or 833 a late 60's Imperial or 440 C body driveshaft will work, it just needs cut down- they used 1330 U joints. I used one from a 68 Imperial in my 68 Dart to mate a 833 to a 8.8, after getting 6-8" taken out it went right in.

Yeah the explorer 8.8 is offset, another option is a Ranger 8.8, the diff is centered and is the same width as an A body rear but they have 28 spline axles and trac loks are not as common. I wanted an 8.25 for my Dart but after 2 years I ended up going with the explorer disc brake rear, I...

The guy that bought my 73 Duster had it swapped to a 4 speed, he bought the kit from brewers and had a resto shop do the work as it's way over his head, it ran about 8k to complete the swap but he also swapped a factory 4 speed column, new carpet,etc, it took the shop about 2 weeks to complete...

7290's will probably be fine depending on how much track time it gets, one of my friends with a 340 swinger had to upgrade to 1350's when he swapped to a 408 and the 60's got into the 1.3's, the 7290's lived for years when it had a 340 and was cutting 1.47-48's. His car only gets track time and...

The rear is usable it just needs narrowed a bit, it can go to stock A body width or 2" narrower than stock depending on which axles it has, some have 3" of taper and some have 4" of taper. If you're on a budget its a great piece to start with, if you're swapping in everything new then it's...

No problem!

Yeah I'll have to dig them up later since they are on my other comp, I also had to relocate the rear brakeline to the framerail forward of the axle instead of over it, on the rear I used the stock ford steel line and hoses.

I have an explorer 8.8 under my 68 Dart, I did the swap about a year ago and it seems to be fine so far, the one I used came from a 97 w/80k and has 4.10's and a trac lok. I did it as cheap as possible just to see if it would work, I had the dr side cut down and used a short pass side axle on...