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The best method is using a large oven to heat the spring to the right temp before re-aching. Cold re-aching doesn't last 30 years like furnace re-arching. The springs were originally arched in a large furnace, that's why they last so long.

GREAT PICS......makes it easy for anyone to understand!!

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Very INGENIOUS!!!!!!!!!!

Glue some pieces of flashing (thin sheet metal) to the sides of the nut (ball joint) to make the socket have a tight fit. Or place the thin sheet metal inside the socket.

Until he drives it down it road a little he really won't know when the shackles will end up??

Have you driven the car for at least a few miles on the road?? Are those nylon lock nuts??

I installed the offset bushing and it still didn't give me enough to align properly. Then I bought the SPC adj UCAs and it solved the problem. They have threaded rods so that you have unlimited adjustment.

I used the "adjustable" SPC upper control arms on my '69 Barracuda. They have endless adjustment on them. The alignment guy who had 25 years experience with older cars said that they made his job easy.

I can't believe it either but pushing 70 makes it really hard to bend over a fender for hours trying to fix an engine problem. Getting under the dash is no fun either. I enjoyed it while I had it and I got good money for it!!! Now my son wants a 454 in his '46 Chevy.........I guess my...

12 inch ............no problem:

The driver is still a passenger???:poke::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Yes, you are correct but sometimes the young, wet behind the ears, parts guys doesn't know that. So you can say driver's side or passenger's side.

Depends on whether you standing in front of the car facing the car or sitting in the driver's seat???

They were well worth it!!! There's nothing more annoying they not being able to align your classice car.

I think they were SPC.........but the were good quality and they worked GREAT!! It solved all my alignment problems. I think I have some pics.

If that doesn't work you can get ajustable upper control arm, that's what I did. Once you have those on there the adjustment is prettty much limitless!!!

"staking"??/

Die I hope, but beware, a good "die" will cut more material off of the threads, you really need a "tread chaser". A thread chaser will clean up the threads without removing any material. Those threads are already missing some material. A tread chaser, some lock tight and a cotter pin will...

You could also drill it for a cotter pin!!! That would really beef up the safety factor !!

Some lock tight wouldn't hurt! I would clean up the threads and find the longest nut (correct grade) you can find to try and grab as many good threads as possible?? In your pic the threads at the base of the threaded portion look a little flattened, but should clean up.

You run the risk of getting metal shavings into the joint!???

How many of us will drive our classic cars 100K??? Not me!! I'd say maybe 5 percent.

Blue Loctite melts at around 400-450F. I would think that a bearing race would get at least 200 or 250 max as long as it's properly greased?

I wouldn't trust anything "new"!!! All the new stuff is junk. Put an ad in the wanted and someone will sell you an original hub that should last forever.

Most folks give them away............I had an extra one for years and couldn't give it away.

You can google you tube videos and find a number of people who show how to straighten axle tubes using heat. Takes a little practice but is very effective. how to straightening axle tube with heat - Google Search

Lowering blocks are a lot cheaper!!

It's not that hard to remove one leaf, all that holds them together is one bolt.....besides, if the "local shop" down the street did something that you didn't ask for they shouldn't have a problem "undoing" what they were not authorized to do.

Until you get everything installed and the tank full of gas and bounce the springs around for a while you have no idea if they are "right" or not. Including the spare tire and jack!! Even after installing stock springs you have to bounce on the back of the car (with wheels on the ground) to...