Search results for query: *

sounds like a bad turnsignal switch to me!

69signetv8 nailed this one down pretty well. p/s don't forget to drain your tank before removing the offending sender. gas in the face sucks!

i don't see a seatbelt interlock bypass box. it should be mounted right above the ign. mod. somewhere. but those color combos are ign. for sure.

mine don't come on in H/L position. danmc77 is correct about the jumper also.

mallory unilite for me

chances are good that, if the motor cranks and starts when the key is in start, but dies when the key is released to run position, you have a bad ballast resistor.

i'm gonna jump in here with something else to check. on the main pin out connector on the harness. make sure that the wires are in the correct location for the circuit board. i've noticed in several cases where, because the wires come out of the connector fairly easily, that they get put back in...

it almost looks like a self resetting circuit breaker. it is the only metal box on the back of the insturment cluster. about 1/2" wide by 1 1/2" long. and sticks out about 3/4". it has 2 stabs that plug into the back of the cluster. you cant miss it.

yes, feed side v/r.

sounds like ballast to me.

check advance auto parts if you really need one. you get the main wire to the block ,and a smaller one that is short with a butt connector already on it. good luck.

check around behind the radio area for an orange wire that aint hooked up. good luck. but it seems to me thats it.

aaaaaaaaaaamen memike. 2 of everything. volt.reg., ballast res., ecu. it'll save you. trust in that.

woooooo hooooo i love it when a plan comes together.

i'm with redfish on this one. good luck.

me too i'm gonna mess around with it tomorrow. thanks alot plumdart, i love to drive it.

my experience says r= hot o= lumination bl= neg speaker gr=pos speaker. mopar harnesses were pretty moch the same colors through out the muscle era. the radio picked up its ground through the dash frame. i didnt look in the book, but im not too far off. if you want me to look in my book, let me...

aint nothing mad about you scientist. i'd say you are pretty close. dgc333 and i agree. not gonna help to d/c the gauge. bulkhead dirty, need cleaned and tightened up. fire no good uness in cylinder. if it starts to melt down don't freak. keep a 1/2 in your pocket and calmly unhook a battery...

fat fingers. i meant dude. doh.

dode i need to know what year this car is. cause they changed some stuff around. just Y/M/M

i ve seen ballast resistor do this. i've got an extra single in the dart and a double in the duster.m2cw. air gap too. also bought new that was junk.never know. good luck man, let us know.

it has a pretty big sound system in it, but it also is the 65 amp alt..im hoping i find a loose ground or something like that.thanks for posting back ya'll. more to follow. i hope.

well, because it a 74, it has a solid state reg. and 2 field alt. i'm gonna hooh an ammeter up to the hot side of the gauge and see what its doing on a good meter. if its jumping around on it i may be able to assess this a little deeper.1968formulas340 if this was yours could you live with it...

sounds like a bad t/s switch to me. the contacts get worn off and then you have to hold it L or R to get them to work. sometimes the pivot pin wears out the plastic and you get the same thing. also, if you are going to remove the cluster, disconnect the battery first. then when you pull the...

thanks redfish. the belt is tight but it may be shot. it just seems kinda strange to see the needle bouncing like that. i'm gonna have to do some more investigating and see what i can see. the bear went over the mountain, you know what i mean. thanks again, will let you know what i find tomorrow.

i've seen this before but can't remember what it was.when i run my lights it just bounces the gauge at the center it bounces 5 or 10 degrees plus and minus.it stays in the middle and it's charging. bad ground? bad alt.? bad regulator? ???????? btw its on my 74 duster /6 automatic.

gray is oil sending purple (p) is temp sending blue(b) is coil (should have a small flat spot inside of connector to correspond with the flat on the coil stud).brown w/ yellow tracer b/y? air car maybe? where does it come from? more info please, we wanna help.

ive seen the inside of the ignition (key) switch wear out too.good luck.

tomt,mine flashes all 4 lights.same car should have same harness.check the stab in the bulkhead connector,they get kinda dirty too.

battery tool tray no work so good, making many spark and bright light.i think all of us have done that. gladly it no burn to ground.