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That's it man! Go about a foot past the line with the purple before you spray the black, to leave yourself room to sand the fade smooth. To make sure you don't buy too much you could do the outside first then if you don't have enough for the jams you can order a quart. Although this will take...

Hmmm.. Single stage not being my normal thing, considering you're going with the roof black I'd have to make a WAG that a gallon will be right, maybe just a bit left over. You painting the jams? That might mean you need a little more. And I was confused by the "kit" designation but no listing...

What I was trying to say, is that particular paint is single stage. I should've looked it up first. As far as it holding up, well, doing the best prep you can and then using wax and keeping it clean after you're done is about all you've got to help it last. You only should need maybe three coats...

Is this what you're looking at? http://tcpglobal.netsuitestaging.com/s.nl/it.A/id.146880/.f It's single stage, hardened, urethane, and should hold up ok.

Acrylic enamel is a single stage. An ancient, non hardened (although some brands can be hardened) low uv resistance single stage. That said it was the industry standard for a long time. Enamel also takes a long time to dry. You'll have to apply the second color days later (maybe less consult...

Whichever way you do it, it takes a lot of clear to cover a line. If by urethane you mean a (hopefully high quality) single stage then there isn't much you can do. 3m makes blue and green stripe tape "fine line tape" they call it. Enables the cleanest straightest lines. And as far as the holes...

:d

Www.safestrustremover.com

Best beak I've seen, exactly how I would have done it too. Bring on the rear end pics!

Alright guys my head is spinning after reading a bunch of threads on this topic. I would like to put 73 and up doors on dad's 70 dart for the purpose of ditching the vent windows. I've found a set on CL from a 73 duster. I know the weatherstripping around the glass opening on the body side will...

There is a franchise business called " bumper man" that might be able to handle that for you. Of course wouldn't help the chrome. Google it up to see if there's one local to you.

Check this out, it absolutely can be done and doesn't look that bad to do a clip swap itself, but oh so much work overall. Really depends on what you're up for. 340 orange swinger resto thread I think the way he did it would be best, leave the firewall and floors in place and swap the rails...

Phew...... Down the rabbit hole you go! 1. I am unfamiliar with nason, but I would guess close to a pint ready to spray for the engine bay. This is from me assuming you're going to do it white, looking at your color scheme. I know it may seem like a lot, but in my experience any "value line"...

Plus the labor if you don't have the stones to DIY. Hotrod mag wrapped their convertible Chevy and were in almost 3k, of course they had custom flames on the front. Also it seems like they had sand scratches showing through everywhere for only finishing the car to 320 grit. Apparently it needs...

Any news?

Yep, my experience as well. If I ever need to use it again I'm going to try 5-10 percent very slow reducer or a hardener one range slower. Lol

Definitely more tricky to spray flattened clear, and despite what the companies may tell you it can be buffed to a shine, which is so wrong. So that means no cutting out sags or runs. For parts the size of your bike stuff I think you'd be doing it right to send them to Leanna. No worries about...

Your local jobber should be able to cross reference the old chips with their new systems, based on my experience.

:thumrigh: that's what really matters

It's got metallic flakes so best to just leave it alone. A sand and buff will make it look BAD. As others have said, it's the engine bay, and IMO since the tops of the inner fenders look pretty good I wouldn't worry about the rest.

Just saw your pic, upper flat surfaces look good. It'll be hard to get the verticals right if the engine is in as it looks, hard to get the gun in there and make the paint lay down.

Without you having experience da-ing, I'd say do it by hand with a stiff block to avoid going through on an edge or putting in grooves from finger pressure. Also no shame in scuffing it and trying to put on a smooth coat. If it came out peely this time, just be a bit more aggressive. Make...

Www.Safestrustremover.com might take a while given how much rust you've got, but it works.

If there is any metallic in the paint I would not try to sand and buff. Also unless you put on... Maybe 3 coats, you might not have enough film build to sand and buff. For easier buffing step up to 1500 grit after the initial sanding.

Yup look for " direct to metal" " corrosion resistant" or similar language, all major paint cos make products that will fit the bill. Don't be afraid to walk into a supply store and ask if their paint line has something like what you're looking for.