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Problem is the center register on that small bolt pattern hub is smaller than the larger bolt pattern (LBP). So a LBP drum won't center properly. If you replace these, you'll have to drill out a set of SBP drums. And same with rear drums too. Probably don't drive this everyday so not a huge...

I’ve run them both ways on my Cuda. No difference. I had to move by pin type caliper to front mount because the Hotchkis UCA have a bend in the rear those particular calipers interfered with. I have a 73-76 K-member and sway bar setup, so no issue mounting them frontward. Functioned 100%...

The differences will show when you use the brakes hard with real aggressive driving or down a long grade with traffic. When they get hot and fade. The 13” brakes in my 5.7 2015 Challenger with track pack suspension will fade going down a long mountain grade with traffic and I’m 80 mph in the...

Yes. They will fit The kit is replacement stock factory engineered reliable parts. Just like what’s on a 73 Dart with 14” rallyes. Just the disk is drilled for sbp. 10.95" Front Disc Brake Kit (Stage 1) SSBC stuff I would avoid.

Dr Diff 11" disk system will work with stock 14x6 rallye. Because his system is a same one Chrysler put on these cars originally. Stock spindle, disk, caliper. Pirate Jack is also a stock 11" based system. Stock spindle, disk, caliper.

Since it has 10.95 rotors and pin type calipers that original combo would be from a 70-72 B/E body with small inner bearing. OR from a 73-74 E-body with large inner bearings. Now, for sure someone can mix and match things. It's not impossible. Just not as common. siuauto, did you do this brake...

So all the hard parts were the same for 10 years and all you've changed is the rotor and the pads? Something goofy with the new rotor or bearings. Look at the old rotor and new. When you lay them flat are the rim faces the same height? Are you replacing rotors on both sides? Do they both rub...

:rolleyes: He does:

Seems like a simple but time consuming (once) way to really dial in your preload and get it exactly where you want it. There's some neat products at PRI. For those who don't know what PRI stands for: PEFORMANCE RACING INDUSTRY It's not a local parts store convention. Racers have and do run...

Not close to the same improvement you made from drum front to disc fronts.

You got rotors that need to be re-drilled. Not off shelf. Does the rotor need a rotor adapter (ring) between the rotor and hub? or is that just with 73-76 Drum spindles? Not a fan of that stamped steel caliper adapter. They have put welded in nuts to hold the floating caliper bolt now. Welding...

True. I lived in Midwest too. There’s just tighter spacing in LA Metro traffic in general. You leave too fat of comfortable gap in high congestion traffic and someone will pop in and fill it.

He lives in LA … he doesn’t have a choice

Just run that Dr Diff stage II kit with 11.75 rotors But you will need large ball joint upper control arms. Like: Mopar Upper Control Arms Or run that spacer Dr Diff sells: Mopar A-Body Upper Ball Joint Tapered Adapter

yea. I think they should help. You might find a happy medium

I run 1 1/32 but I have pin calipers. It’s a hard pedal and takes some force. not sure if the slider caliper bores are larger or smaller.

i just wondered if the rebuild parts or most of the parts are the same.... seals and such.

Would 65-67 mustangs used something similar? They use very similar calipers, IIRC.

Elite Driveline? Cocoa Fla, or NY? Elite vintage auto Found a Good Parts Vendor

so what did the guy that built the rear end suggest for a master cylinder for the ones he’s sold? Does it look like this one?: MOPAR NEW A/B/E 8 3/4 POSI REAR DISC BRAKES COMPLETE 3.23/3.55/3.73/3.91/4.10 | eBay

where the rear disk also from MBM ? what did MBM suggest for a master. When going rear disk you need to have a proven matched setup with your front brakes and prices master cylinder setup. worth extra money to go with dr diff. For the time, effort and parts you’ve thrown at this Dr Diff...

I’m not aware of the brake hose hole moving from 79 to 80. call Dr Diff or email him with a picture of your calipers

Pick calipers on the rear: Stainless Front Brake Flex Hose Kit

be careful with the firm feel. years ago a friend put them on a car and when they were cold... forget about it. Those were like race pads That was 20 years ago... so might have changed since then. Need to ask them. now they might be a great pad to change out for race day.

Not sure what you mean by solid? they are not slotted or drilled. I run semi metallic pads. The pads are old mopar boxed pads that were supposed to be police duty. They are parts store 11.75” rotors.

I never ran Wilwood stuff on my personal cars. So I don’t know what master works for that setup. Does Dr Diff make the disk brake spindle to Wilwood caliper adapters ?? If so he would know. Or maybe whomever makes it.

should stop at least same or better. But might not be noticeable on street. That’s IF the master cylinder bores are correct diameter. That might take some trial and error or find someone with same setup.

if you like your current pedal feel I’d go #4 for just aggressive street cruising. both my abodies have just 11.75 rotors with factory calipers. I manage out at Willow Springs with that setup. But repeatedly slowing at the end of the long straightaway from 110+ mph to make a 50 mph curve...

Were any other hard lines replaced other than the ones to the master cylinder? Were the axle flex lines changed?

Did you take the rear drums off, open the 2 dust covers on each wheel cylinder and look for seepage? Since you already spotting previous owner had swapped the lines going into the master cylinder incorrectly....AND it only had single flare lines to it... you need to start from scratch. Trust...